Primed Front LH Spar, Devinyled RH Skin

January 6, 2010

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After getting home late from work and running back out for some takeout, I got in about an hour before heading to bed.

First, I finished cleaning up (scotchbrite, dawn detergent, and lacquer thinner) the left HS front spar in preparation for priming. I don’t love doing these one piece at a time, but the spray can makes it easy, and I can complete a few parts in an evening. I did the front spar so I can maybe start riveting stuff together this weekend. I still have some work to do on cleaning up the rear spars and rear spar reinforcement bars, but I could start with the skins and ribs, then finish the rear spar stuff once I have to plug it into the back of the completed HS.

Left front spar (HS-702) sitting next to the left ribs I finished the other day.

Then I devinyled the right HS skin, which went much faster than the left skin.

Right HS skin. Doesn't that look nice?

Here's the inside...

Also, a fellow RV (-8A) builder at work was kind enough to lend me his Avery C-frame. Maybe I’ll get a chance to do a little skin dimpling this weekend.

Borrowed c-frame. Wuhoo saving money!

Next up:

1) Finish dimpling left HS skin
2) Deburr right HS skin
3) Dimple right HS skin
4) Prep and prime inside of both skins
5) Finish prep for right HS ribs and front spar
6) Prime right HS Ribs and front spar
7) Prep and Prime rear spar components
8) Rivet HS together

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Preliminary Edge Prep on VS Ribs

January 5, 2010

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No pictures tonight, but I spent 30 minutes getting some preliminary edge prep completed on the VS ribs. Basically, I took a file to the edges, then used my edge deburring tool to knock down the edges. I didn’t do this before clecoing the HS ribs together, and it scratched the skins a little.

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More HS Priming, Dimpling

January 5, 2010

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I got in 30 minutes cleaning the remaining left HS ribs and getting a coat of self-etching primer on both sides. After looking at last night’s primed ribs, I am still very happy with the decision to use self-etching primer.

Here are all 5 ribs from the left HS.

I was going to put in an hour or two dimpling the left HS skin with the pop-rivet dimplers, but I broke another nail (I should point out this is a real nail, not my fingernail), and getting frustrated, started questioning using the pop-rivet dimplers for the skins. Then I decided to test out the dimples with an AN4263-3.5 rivet. Here is the result:

Spring back dimple die used on the upper left dimple. Pop-rivet dimple dies used on the bottom right dimple.

I am not very happy with the dimples from the pop-rivet dimples. I am going to put these back in the tool chest, and only use them in tight places. Tomorrow, I am going start asking around for a c-frame to use on the skins.

I also worked for 30 minutes on preliminary edge-prep for the VS ribs, but I’m going to log that under another post.

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Another Avery tool order

January 5, 2010

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I ordered the following from Avery today:

Part # 3753 – 6″ Scotchbrite cutting and polishing wheel

Part # SB280 – Perma-grit Sanding Block – Flat – 280mm x 51mm course/fine

I only make a special entry for these because they come so highly recommended. An F1 Rocket builder said he wouldn’t build again without his Permagrit block, and another RV-8 builder really convinced me yesterday that I am not going to get the edge finishing final product that I want with a scotchbrite wheel. I’ll add pics when they show up.

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Left skin work, primed two ribs

January 4, 2010

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“I need to get something other than deburring and dimpling tonight, so I think I will finish prepping the rear spars and rear spar reinforcement bars, prime, and maybe start riveting. We’ll see how it goes.”

That’s what I said to myself yesterday at about 2pm. Guess what I spent all night doing? Deburring and dimpling!

Here's my new skin deburring and dimpling station. Notice the glass of wine and the UNC game on the projector. Essentials for successful deburring/dimpling.

Then, I decided to finish prepping a few of the ribs. I’m going to prime a few components at a time while I am working on other stuff.

I believe this is HS-707 and HS-708.

2 of 10 HS ribs ready to go.

After deburring the left HS skin, I dimpled all the holes I could reach with my 3″ yoke, then broke out the pop-rivet dimple dies and started on the interior holes. I broke the nails used to squeeze the dies together on the first 3 holes consecutively, but then found a good sweet spot on the next two. Then it was time for bed. I don’t know whether I’ll continue with the pop-rivet dimple dies or opt for a c-frame. I think the c-frame is going to be loud, which means I can’t work late with it. Hmm.

All of the edge holes dimpled, and the 5 top interior holes on one side dimpled. More tomorrow, I guess.

I think I put in about 2.5 hours today.

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Now thinking paint instead of polish

January 4, 2010

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While I was thinking of polishing for awhile, a recent trip to Key West now has me thinking paint is the way to go.

I was sitting in a window seat about halfway back on the east side of an Airbus A-320, which ended up being directly in the sun’s reflection from the polished leading edges. I decided to do a little experiment. I put on my sunglasses, and purposefully sat directly in the reflection for about an hour. I pretended I was looking for traffic close to the leading edge, and then got out a magazine (approach plate) and tried to read.

It was pretty brutal. At this point, I believe the cool factor of having a polished airplane is just about the same as the negative from the sun’s reflection.

Knowing I will go back and forth (many times) before I really need to decide, I think at this moment, I am back to painting, but with the same general theme I have been liking (see my previous ideas page for my last thoughts on this).

I’m going to repost some pictures of Tim Davidson’s RV-6 that I really like. Tim’s airplane is currently for sale on Barstormers, so I’m sure he won’t mind the additional traffic, but Tim, if you want, I’ll pull these down.

N65TD - Front left quartering

N65TD - Low Pass

N65TD - Right side

N65TD - Right rear quartering

N65TD - Beautiful in-air shot

I probably won’t do the checkerboard up front, but I definitely like this scheme. Looks fast.

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Deburr and Dimple HS skeleton

January 3, 2010

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Today was another short day.
I spent about 3.5 hours (here and there) deburring all of the holes in the HS skeleton and then dimpling any holes that needed it (skin to rib holes). I’m using Avery’s tank dimple dies for any dimples recieving other dimples (ribs only, which recieve the skin dimples) at the reccommendation of some other builders (namely Brad Oliver’s post). The resulting dimples look great so far. Sorry about the lack of pictures; edge finishing is not exciting.

These are just the right side HS ribs, but I did the left side, too. And all of the spars.

I also managed to edge and surface prep the left hand skeleton and one of the HS-609PPs.

Coming up next: more edge finishing and prep for priming, plus skin deburring and dimpling. I might finish up the left side stuff (since I can prime pretty quickly) and do a little riveting tonight. Or, wait and do the whole HS together. I haven’t decided yet. In the least, I need to clean up a little. There is aluminum everywhere.

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Inboard ribs, devinyled left HS skin

January 2, 2010

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Busy day today, but I did get some work in. I managed to get the left and right HS-404s and HS-405s reclecoed onto their respective skins to make sure the inboard edges were flush with eachother.  This isn’t called out in the instructions or anything, just one of those small details that would bug me if I didn’t make the rib to skin edges flush. I should have done this prior to disassembly, but I didn’t really think about this until later. By the way, the only time this will even matter is when someone has the fuse-emp fairing off and can see the inboard skin/rib edges.

Also, I brought the left HS skin into the kitchen and fired up the now dull (file and scotchbrite pad) soldering iron to devinyl the left HS skin. I decided I am only going to prime the mating surfaces of the skins (but all of the skeleton), so I did the rivet lines on the interior, too. It took forever.

Left skin devinyled. Looks nice.

2.0 hours today total. 30 minutes for the inboard ribs and an hour and a half for the devinyling. Luckily, I perfected (at least improved) my devinyling technique; the right skin should go a little faster.

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Finished drilling the HS

January 1, 2010

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Short, but productive day.

It was Jack’s birthday today (he turned 3), so I ran out to Chik-Fil-A to get him is once a year human food treat. A chicken biscuit. Of course, Ginger needed one too (“so she doesn’t feel left out”) and so on, which meant my girlfriend and I also got biscuits. Here are Jack and Ginger.

Jack and Ginger (Jack's on the right) on the beach last summer. Happy Birthday Jack. You're 3 now. Start acting like it.

Anyway, after the birthday festivities (a.k.a. Jack and Ginger inhaling their biscuits), I managed a couple hours on the project. Here, I clamped HS-404 in place after having first marked holes and drilled #40 pilot holes in the aft flange. The instructions have you mark and drill pilot holes in the HS-405, but why drill from aft to forward, hoping you don’t run into edge distance problems when you could drill from forward to aft? For the outboard holes, I did use the HS-405 for pilot holes. You’ll see.

HS-404, with two pilot holes marked and drilled prior to mock-up.

Here are the silver clecos after drilling from forward to aft with my 12″ bit.

Used the #40 pilot holes I previously drilled in HS-404 to drill through HS-702 and HS-405.

Then, I used the previously marked and pilot drilled holes in HS-405 to drill forward through the HS-702 (front spar) and HS-710/714 (reinforcement angles). The 12″ bit really came in handy here.

Then used the #40 pilot holes I made in HS-405 to drill through HS-702 and HS-710 (or HS 714 for the other side). Here, you can see the 12" bit really showing its stuff.

Then, I matchdrilled the rest of the HS-404, which had been clamped in place in the above pictures. After that, I finished match-drilling the rest of the skin for the right side. After you finish and pull the skin off, you can drill the remaining HS-702 holes using the HS-710 and HS-714 angles as guides. Here are the last six holes drilled after pulling off the skin.

Finished drilling HS-710 and HS-714 after removing the skin.

After the skins are pulled off, I’m ready to start prep for final assembly.

After match rilling both skins and finishing the HS-710/HS-714 to HS-702 holes, The skeletons lay ready to disassemble, deburr, dimple, edge finish, surface prep, and prime.

2.0 hours today. Not bad.
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More HS work

December 31, 2009

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First thing in the morning, I had to run some errands, one of which included a stop by Harbor Freight to exchange my Automatic Compressor Drain Kit that had a crack in it. While I was there, I used two coupons. One, for a free tape measure, the other for almost half off a 6″ digital caliper. Walked out the door with a new caliper, tape measure, and an exchanged drain kit for $10. Can’t beat that.

Free tape measure at Harbor Freight. Also a coupon for 1/2 off a $20 digital caliper.

I went ahead and scotchbrited all the HS ribs. I was sick of the aluminum dust on my hands during scotchbriting, so I took these inside and did them with warm water (only reason for warm was so my hands didn’t get cold) in the kitchen sink. Worked well with a lot less dust. (Also, I think showing pictures of my work with finished pieces looks a lot better than the original parts, which are all shiny and finger-printy after my grubby hands work with them.)

Surface prepped HS ribs.

Then, the directions have you cleco the left skeleton together.

It looks like an airplane! Kind of.

I did the right side too (mostly so I could take the next picture), then match-drilled all of the rib/spar attach points to #30, (except for 708/603), which they have you do later to a #21.

Both skeletons after match-drilling all of the rib to spar attach points.

Then you get to cleco on the skin (wuhoo!). I had trouble with HS-707 here. the very tip of the rib kind of caught on the  skin (vinyl); I had to really work to get it back into position and clecoed. you can see here I clecoed every hole on the HS-707.

Clecoed on the left HS-601 skin.

Then I inserted the HS-404 (front inboard) and HS-405 (rear inboard) ribs and clamp. Here, you can see the HS-405 clamped.

Inserted HS-404 and HS-405 for match drilling.

Then I match-drilled the HS-405 to the HS-601PP (skin). I didn’t do the top or bottom forward most hole, because I seem to be having edge distance troubles on the HS-405 and HS-702 spar. I checked everything and it seems to be right. I checked some other build sites to see if other people have run into this, no one mentioned it. Right as I was going to post a question on the VAF forums about this, a new thread popped up. Apparently this is a common problem, and the edge distance on HS-405 is not to be worried about. It’s a little confusing, though, given the prepunched nature of the parts.

I went ahead and match-drilled it. I’ll examine the edge distance a little more closely when I take apart the HS for prep. I repeated all the steps for the right side, then started in on match-drilling the skin to forward spar holes inboard of the 707. (Below, you are looking at the bottom of the stab, so the right HS is on the left in the picture. you can see the extra clecos from what I will call the “middle ribs” (708 and 707) inboard along the front spar. Those are not pre-punched on the spar, so you have to use the holes in the skin to match-drill.)

Then repeated for the right HS. Looks like an airplane!

11am to 6pm, with an hour for lunch. 6 hours today.

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