Pilots N Paws Fly-in, SC Breakfast Club (Triple Tree Aerodrome, SC)

June 20, 2010

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Today was the first annual (maybe?) Pilot’s N Paws fly-in at Triple Tree Aerodrome just south of Greeneville, SC. Pilot’s N Paws partnered with the South Carolina Breakfast Club (a group I now want to hang out with more) to host a breakfast for both groups. As far as I am concerned, it was a great success.

Without saying a lot about how much I love Pilot’s N Paws (see my first rescue here), go check out their website, and sign up to rescue puppies, it’s ridiculously easy and rewarding.

Triple Tree was such a great venue. What an amazing place.

As usual, I’m posting these pictures, and may come back later for some more commentary. I’m working on the trim tab right now, hence a lot of pictures of peoples’ tabs. Also, there were a ton of planes there, maybe 150? Of course, most of my pictures are of RVs.

Of course, if you find a picture of your plane here, and either want a copy or want me to remove the picture, just let me know (easiest way is to make a comment on the post.)

Good motivation for more airplane work.

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Drilled E-701 (Left Elevator Skin) to Skeleton

June 17, 2010

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Wow, it’s been a week since I’ve worked on the airplane.

I have an excuse, though. I’ve been installing wood floors. Here’s the living room, almost done.

Anyway, if you remember from the last post, I had the left elevator skin clecoed to the skeleton. I went ahead and match-drilled the skin to the skeleton. Instead of using my cordless drill (because it’s quieter), I broke out the air drill and went to town. I love the way that thing sounds.

Forgot to charge the camera battery, so it charged while I drilled.

After matchdrilling both sides, this picture is me in the middle of removing all of the clecos.

Then, because I felt like I would be short-changing you if I didn’t have two pictures for you, here’s another one.

After disassembly.

Here’s the catch, though. I have a lot of thinking and pondering to do about some things.

First of all, I am planning on cutting off the elevator tab (and elevator) bent ears and just making a rib out of them. Jason Beaver did it pretty successfully here and here, so I’m basically going to copy him.

The question is whether to prep and rivet the left elevator now, the cut off the “ears” after riveting, then try to fabricate a rib, matchdrill, dimple, prep again, etc., or should I re-cleco everything together and do all of that fabrication now.

Many people use blind rivets for the extra tab fabrication, but I think I am going to try to use solid rivets. I have had some success in the past with solid rivets in tight spaces using a special bucking bar (namely, the end of a BFS (“big-freakin-screwdriver”). The question will be about dimpling.

Also, I can probably cut the ears off, but leave a little extra material. I need to make sure I line up the cuts on the elevator and tab to minimize the gab between the two, and I don’t want to cut to much off of either side. Maybe I’ll mock them up, cut one side to where I think it should be, and make sure the other side can be cut more precisely to match the first cut.

Also, many people use blind rivets for the four trim spar rivets on both sides (per the plans), but I think I can assemble in an order that allows me to use solid rivets, especially since I’m going to cut the elevator bent tab ears off; I should be able to reach in there with a bucking bar.

See how much thinking I have to do?

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Drilled E-714, Clecoed Left Elevator Skin

June 10, 2010

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Hey Look! Andrew’s not dead! Yeah, I’ve been working on some house projects. Back to the left elevator tonight, though.

I managed to catch myself up with where I was and push on today. I need to get that counterweight drilled.

Here you can see the counterweight, counterbalance skin, and the two end ribs around which the other parts reside.

After placing the weight in position, you cleco on the skin (difficultly) and get ready to match-drill. Of course, I met the same challenges I did on the right elevator…namely, I broke a drill bit (#40 size). After getting a pilot hole drilled, I took everything apart and separately enlarged them all to #21. Air tool oil was used with great success after the pilot hole was drilled.

Ready to start drilling.

I didn’t take any pictures, though, because I was getting frustrated. (At first, I was dipping the drill bit into the oil, which meant I had to take the lid off. Then, after stepping away a few minutes later, I placed the screw lid (with the flip-up spout) back on the oil bottle and immediately flipped it over to aim oil into the pilot hole. Guess what! I forgot to tighten down the lid. There goes the lid, and about a 1/2 cup of oil…all over the counterweight, table, and floor.)

Now do you see why I forgot to keep taking pictures?

Anyway, after that debacle (which of course gets counted in the build time…it’s time spent building, right?)

Anyway, here is that same assembly (sans weight) before clecoing on the skin.

In preparation for clecoing on the skin, I needed to handle E-606PP, which is the trim tab hinge spar. Since I was looking ahead earlier and dimpled the hard-to-reach holes (you can see in the skin below), I need to do something with the spar to accept those dimples. If you read ahead in the directions, the spar is countersunk on the top flange (because the hinge is riveted beneath the spar flange, it can’t be dimpled), and dimpled on the bottom flange.

June 10 Update: After countersinking these four holes, I later did some more research and realized that the countersinks called for (due to the hinge) don’t really apply here, because the hinge stops short of these four holes. I could have (and wished I’d ) dimpled. Boo.

Here are the two parts that need to fit together nicely.

Finally, I got the skeleton and skin clecoed together.

Wuhoo. It looks like an airplane.

A solid hour. Maybe more this weekend.

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Bent Left Elevator Trailing Edge

June 2, 2010

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Sick again today, but I did get a little work done.

First, I spent a considerable amount of time looking at the 4 horizonal holes below. The plans show them as blind rivets, but there has to be a way to get solid rivets in there.

After much deliberation, I think if I drill them to #40 now (gasp, without matchrilling!?) Then I can deburr, scuff, and dimple the area now. I’ll do the same to the equivalent holes in the trim spar, and then attach (at a minimum) the top skin to trim spar holes with solid rivets. I think I will be able to get both sides, as I am planning on cutting off the “bent tabs” from both the elevator and trim tab.

First, drill to #40.

Then, deburr interior and exterior, and scuff the interior only.

I got the c-frame out again and dimpled the holes.

I should be able to make that work out for me, but more on the bent tab cutting later on.

Next up is bending the trailing edge. After inserting and taping a 1/8" dowel in the trailing edge, I bent it in my bending brake. This picture is about halfway bent.

Then, I removed the dowel, bent it the rest of the way, and did the same with the trim tab since I was in the bending mood. (Side note, the trailing edge on the elevator looked great, but was not constant radius…it was larger radius toward the tip. I grabbed the hand seamers and gently squeezed the areas so they were all the nice crisp radius that the inboard trailing edge was.)

Trim tab bent.

Also, I way overbent the trim tab. There are no stiffeners in there to stop you, so you can basically flatten the thing, even with the dowel rod in there. I opened it back up a little by hand, but it’s not perfect. If I can’t get it back to perfect, I’m going to order another one. I think I can work with this one, though.

This is a radius shot of both the elevator only.

Here's one with the tab held in place. Looks good to me.

Another sickly hour today. Can’t complain.

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Backriveted Left Elevator Stiffeners

June 1, 2010

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I wasn’t feeling well today (sore throat, could harldy swallow), but after a nice long sleep-in and a nap in the afternoon, I went out to the garage partly because I wanted to sweat out some of the demons. I didn’t take a ton of pictures, but I managed a few.

I broke out the c-frame and dimpled the skins.

First up, skin dimpling.

I did much better on the trailing edge dimples than last time (see this post).

This is the worst one, but it still looks great, and is hardly noticeable unless you are really looking for it.

After dimpling, I wiped down all of the scuffed areas with MEK to rid them of fingerprints (oils) aluminum dust, moisture, etc., and then primed.

Primed interior. Notice how I leave a lot of the blue vinyl on the skins? This helps keep weight down (although undoubtedly adds to build time while I painstakingly trace around the stiffeners with a marker and use those lines to devinyl.

Moving back to the skeleton, I mounted a one-leg 1/4″ nutplate in the forward tooling hole of the counterbalance and tip ribs. This will hold any future weight I need to balance the elevator with paint.

I used an undersized countersunk screw in the tooling hole to help locate the nutplate, then drilled one hole and clecoed from the back.

Both holes drilled, and the main hole enlarged to something a little larger than 1/4"...I can't remember...maybe 5/32"?

Next, I moved back to the spar. I have read where a few people have added a hole in the lightening hole area of the elevator control horn/spar area. The right hole is for manual trim or for the (what I’ll call “retracted”) jack screw and wiring runs for the electric trim motor. I, like others, don’t like the idea of the wires and jack screw sharing the same hole, so I drilled another hole, in which I will add a 3/8″ snap bushing.

Pilot hole eye-balled.

Crap, I didn't even get a picture of the final size hole. (I drilled it to 3/8".)

After completed the extra hole, I noticed the skin was dry. Nothing to stop me from backriveting, now.

Rivets place in, and taped to, the first stiffener row.

Same thing with the trim reinforcement area.

After backriveting the trim reinforcement. Man, this makes me happy.

The next couple rows, done.

The bottom half went smoothly. The top half now has rivets taped in place.

Where are those stiffeners?

This isn't a very exciting picture, but they are all riveted.

Here's the inside.

I love this picture. This is the trim reinforcement plate area.

So nice. (That scratch at the top is very superficial. It'll buff right out, I promise.)

Biggest lesson today was about the aft-most rivet in the stiffeners. When bending the skin out of the way to reach that rivet, everything twists out of alignment. If you start with that rivet, it is easier to make sure everything is flush than if you rivet the forward ones first. Start from the back and move forward. You will get better results.

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Primed the rest of the Left Elevator Stiffeners

May 31, 2010

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Tonight, I moved on with the left elevator by matchdrilling the upper stiffeners.

Here are the upper left elevator stiffeners, after trimming, being matchdrilled to the skin. First, I drilled and clecoed the forwardmost hole.

The three forwardmost holes clecoed.

After finishing, I traced the stiffener outlines on the inside and outside of the skin.

These will help me devinyl later.

You can see I have already done the lower surface of the elevator (it's upside-down on the table).

And, of course, since I forgot to add RTV to the right elevator (still trying to figure out a way to get some RTV in there), I wrote a little reminder on the inside of the left elevator.

Hopefully I'll see this as I pull out the last of the blue vinyl just before assembly.

Next, devinyl along the traced lines and then deburr and scuff.

Left elevator skin interior after devinyling, deburring, and scuffing.

Next up, I deburred and scuffed the remaining stiffeners. (I don’t have any pictures, but after this, they got dimpled and then primed.)

Because the upper surface doesn't have the trim reinforcement plate, there are 4 (instead of 3) of the short stiffeners.

Next up, devinyl and deburr the outside of the skin.

Skin devinyling.

A small tip here. I decided that at the aft end of the elevator, i would leave a little blue vinyl instead of connecting the upper and lower surface bare spots. This way, If I need to rest the elevator on its trailing edge, I won't be damaging the finish on the trailing edge.

Because it was late, I couldn’t use the c-frame.

Instead, I grabbed the hand squeezers and dimpled anything I could reach.

Just for kicks, I held up the trim reinforcement plate (and cover, still covered in blue vinyl) which will be riveted underneath the skin to the right.

Here are the other sides of the upper stiffeners getting primed.

I toook these inside for a good washing with Dawn before drying them, wiping with MEK, drying some more, and then shooting with primer.

I had a few more minutes, so I started match-drilling the skeleton. Here is one of the spar reinforcement plates being drilled to the spar.

I used my 12" #30 bit due to cleco-clearance issues.

Finally, before heading in, I shot a coat of primer on the other side of the upper left elevator stiffeners.

Nighty-night.

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First Floor Wood Floors

May 30, 2010

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May 30, 2010 – Ripped Up Dining Floors
Jun 04, 2010 – Picked up New Flooring
Jun 05, 2010 – More Floor Demolition
Jun 12, 2010 – Underlayment and box opening
Jun 13, 2010 – Started Laying Floor in Living Room and Foyer
Jun 15, 2010 – Living Room Done
Jun 26, 2010 – Dining Room Done
Jul 06, 2010 – Hallway/Powder Room
Aug 01, 2010 – Family Room/Kitchen
Aug 14, 2010 – Nailgun purchase, Trim
Sep 05, 2010 – Almost done with the Kitchen
Sep 12, 2010 – Kitchen Finished!
Oct 23, 2010 – Dining and Living Rooms Done
Nov 28, 2010 – Family Room Finished
Jan 02, 2011 – Family Room and Powder Room


Okay, this is not airplane project related, but I need a place to keep everyone updated with pictures and progress on the wood floors project.

(Okay, okay, it is related…I am redoing the floors while I wait for the wing kit to arrive). Happy?

Long story short, the floors in my house are kind of weird. On the first floor, I’ve got good wood floors in the foyer, carpet in the living and family rooms, vinyl tile-look-alike in the kitchen, and laminate flooring in the dining room that was not installed correctly.

The floors are on order, so it’s time to start. I’m putting these floors in the whole first floor. It’s going to be a big project. I’m going to start in the dining room, move to the living room, then go to the rest of the house. That will have the least impact on the kitchen and family rooms, where most of the day’s activities occur.

May 30, 2010: Ripping up old dining room floors. (I won’t add a ton of commentary…for your sanity’s sake.)

I've taken out the first part of the floors. The person who installed these lined up all of the seams. Also, you could put your foot on any row, and slide the whole row back and forth. Boo.

First row pulled up.

I like to play a game called "will it burn?" (Yes, it does.)

The underlayment actually wasn't in bad shape.

Jack and Ginger: "What the heck is this stuff? Can I eat this?

I pulled the underlayment up and balled it up to throw in the garbage.

All done for the day.

Next up, removing the molding and taking up the crapet in the living room. I’ll update this post later with more progress.

June 4th, 2010:

Hey, I picked up the wood floors today. The guy helping me load them into the 4Runner made a joke about not being able to fit them all into the truck. It was only funny because they fit exactly. I could not have fit one more box.

This seems like it

A side view. I had a ton of extra room. /sarcasm off.

From the front. (Those top few rows would have gone over my head in an accident, I promise.)

After removing 9 or so boxes (30 lb each?) from the back. 38 left. (Arms tired...)

Hey look! All the boxes are inside acclimating! Wait...this doesn't seem like all 47 boxes.

Oh. Here are the rest.

I’m so tired from all of the box-lifting, that I can’t even come up with anything funny to say. Sorry.

(Here’s some funny for you: When the guy from Lumber Liquidators asked when I was planning on installing the floors, I responded “Summer 2010.”)

He laughed.

So should you.

The instructions on the packages say to let the floors acclimate for 24 hours, but I am going to stick with the tried-and-true 1 week waiting period. No use in tempting the wood floor gods by installing them too early. Besides, I still have a lot of demo (demolition…in the form of removing carpet, pad, and tack strip, as well as molding) to do in the living room before being able to lay the underlayment (perpendicularly) in both living and dining rooms (Of course, I am laying the floors parallel to the windows and along the longest hallway, per common practice.)

More later this weekend.

June 5th, 2010:
Not much to see here, just more floor demolition.

Pulling up carpet.

Pulling up more carpet. (In sections, because I have so much crap in the living room.)

Next, pulling up the tack strip...

All done with the tack strip...let's move into the foyer.

Pulling up these wood floors was satisfying. Very satisfying.

Towards the kitchen...

Finally. All the foyer wood floors have been demo'ed.

lastly, I started pulling of the molding, very carefully. We are going to try to save this, seeing as how it is about $1 per linear foot to replace.

Next up, more molding demo (salvage) and then laying underlayment in preparation for laying floor!

June 12th, 2010:
After spending a couple days prepping and paiting the dining room and living room cieling room, I was finally given the okay to really start on the floors. First thing was to really make sure the floors were clean, then start unrolling the underlayment.

After laying the first row, moving the flooring onto that row, and laying the second row, I grabbed this shot. The blue stuff in the middle is a flimsy plastic covering for some double sided tape preinstalled on one side of the underlayment. On the other side is that 3″ piece of plastic (you can see on the right). After you line everything up, just pull the tape off through the seam, and they seal together. Nice and easy

oooh...aaah.

Working on the third row.

I have to start in the bay window area, so once I got the third row in, I stopped because I am too excited to actually get some of this stuff down. Here are a couple boxes opened and just scattered randomly.

Nice color and variation, right? We're really happy with it.

Next up is drawing some reference (straight) chalk lines to make sure the seams look good along the longest hallways. Then the saw comes out to get actually started.

June 13th, 2010:
Wuhoo! I actually started putting floor down.

To start today, the girlfriend and I measured from the walls along the back of the house so we could make a series of straight reference lines with a chalk line. I then used one pretty close to the bay window as the starting point, and moved into the window area. Turns out, the front of the house wasn’t perfectly square with the back of the house (and the longest hallway, which we want to be perfect), so there were some rip cuts early in the day.

I shouldn't have started in the bay window area. This was actually hard to measure and make all of these cuts.

See the angled walls? Hard!

Oh man, these look good.

Coming down the stairs is where the look the best.

Due to the overlapping nature of the locking joints I had to extend all the way into the hall closet so I could move further down the living room.

After about 8 hours worth of work, I have the bay window done, and a lot of the foyer. I'm going to lay the last row in front of the stairs (requires some intricate work with the saw) and then finish up the living room before coming back into the foyer to fill into the front door and toward the kitchen.

It doesn't look like much, but that was 8 hours of back-breaking work. Anyone feel sorry for me? (I didn't think so.)

I need a nap. (How bout some wine! That’ll do.)

June 15, 2010:
Living room done.

I'm tired, and my knees and back are sore, but here's my update. Better than carpet, eh?

June 26, 2010:
Foyer and dining room done.

Here's the foyer being claimed by Ginger. (She is also making sure none of the neighbors enter into HER cul-de-sac.)

Here's the dining room, mostly done. I have one very skinny strip to do under the window, but why do today what I can put off until tomorrow?

“But, Andrew,” you say, “why is there a big hole in the floor?”

Well… [deep breath]

Basically, with the lips that are included on 2 of the four sides of each piece, you have to work from left to right, but you can either lay the next row on top of the existing row (if working from top to bottom), or tuck  the next row under the existing row (if working from bottom to top). This picture is sideways from the description, but basically, I was working from the right side of the picture toward the left side, and when I came to the doorway, I could have run the next row all the way through the kitchen and into the family room, thereby disrupting all activities in those rooms, or devise a plan to jump the doorway and continue into the dining room. The way I’ve left this, I can keep laying floor until the single biggest gap (right in the middle) is the only one left, then, I can slide that one row in from the kitchen, and the only violation of the overlapping and locking seams is that one 4.25″ edge right in the middle of the room. (The pieces will still be overlapping, just not locking. The directions allow this by using a chisel to scrape off the locking part of the overlap, then using wood glue to secure.) We chose the middle of the room for this edge because it will most likely be covered by a rug, and if it ever separates (not likely) you won’t see it.

Also, you can see my patented protect-the-floors-from-the-wood-chewing-dogs apparatus. Also, you can barely see the hideous vinyl tile lookalike that was previously in the kitchen.

I’m tired. Time for a nap.

July 6, 2010:
Working on the hallway and powder room.

I missed an internet update for a nice workday last weekend moving into the hallway, but here’s a picture of both day’s worth of (slight) accomplishment. I finally worked my way down to the storage closet and bathroom doors. These door jam undercuts are pretty tough, and you have to chisel off some of the self-locking parts of the flooring and use wood glue to hold them in place, but it worked outl

I'm getting closer to the dreaded kitchen, but need to finish up the storage closet and powder room first.

After moving into the bathroom (I have to go both into the closet and bathroom at the same time), I realized I would be able to put off tearing out the vanity and toilet until later. I can move into the bathroom, and then back out before getting to the toilet, backfilling both of the skipped areas later, when we’re ready to replace the vanity and tackle the toiled thing. For now, I’ll do what I can and move onward toward the kitchen.

You can see I'll be able to go into the bathroom, then work right, then come back out before getting too close to the toilet.

The next big task is tearing up the carpet and tack strips from the storage closet. That is hard work in a small space. Boo.

August 1, 2010:
I didn’t really update this page much during July (and for that I apologize), but I was working on the floors here and there.

I didn’t get any pictures of me pulling out the carpet and tack strip, or actually laying flooring in the storage closet, but that took me awhile.

Instead of pulling up everything in the kitchen now, I decided to “turn the corner” into the family room, and work upwards toward the wall. This way, I could get a big chunk of room done without interrupting the family using the kitchen on a daily basis.

After pulling up half the carpet and rolling it up into 4′ sections (your welcome, picky garbage person!), I slaved over a crowbar and hammer pulling up the carpet tack strip. Then, I carefully removed the trim, labeled everything so I know where it goes, and cleaned up the concrete floor.

I'm pretty sure the builders painted all of the quarter-round on the concrete floor here. Nice.

After laying down my underlayment, I laid some temporary rows (the ones with the holes in them) for alignment, and then started building up toward the wall.

When I’m ready to connect the kitchen and family room, I will remove the temporary rows and replace them with “real” rows.

This is going to look very nice with the trim done. (Oh, and the rest of the room done.)

Today (Aug 1), I started in on the kitchen. First thing, I turned the corner into the pantry, and then started backfilling the dining room pyramid hole.

After a pretty difficult cut to get around the wall and door jam (had to buy a new tool to cut the door jams properly, wuhoo!), I put some more underlayment down and got the pantry knocked out.

Pantry done.

Then, I turned another corner (I only point this out because these are the hard cuts) and moved into the fridge area.

Fridge area cleaned up.

Fridge area done (enough to put the fridge back). I'll need to pull it out again to put the trim in, but it's good for now.

The next work session will be a big one, I’ll be laying floor all the way into the family room.

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, and that is exciting for everyone. Even you…right?

August 14, 2010:

Well, I finished up a closet and pantry in the last few days, so it is off to Harbor Freight to buy a brad nailer to put up some trim. (We have to get the trim back up before putting stuff back in the closets so the garage can be cleared out enough for the wing kit to arrive.

Here’s the nailer I bought for $20 or so.

Doesn't it just ooze "high quality?" (Please note the sense of foreboding.)

Huh, looks like it should work okay. (More foreboding.)

After shooting about 6 brads, I was thinking to myself, “this thing is pretty nice.”

Two more, then it jammed….doh!

I took it apart, cleared the jam, put it back together, shot two more brads, and it jammed again.

Once again, I have learned my lesson about buying cheap tools. Some tools are fine to buy cheaply (like the 4 adjustable wrenches I got for $10, which are awesome), but something like a brad nailer really needs to be nice quality.

I returned the original unit to Harbor Freight and headed over to the Aviation Department (I mean tool section) of Lowe’s, and picked up this nice Bostitch brad nailer.

Much better.

Alright, so the walls aren't straight, and the trim is showing some gaps. That's what caulk is for! (I am very unhappy with the quality of the trim. I think early next year I will pay someone out to re-trim the whole house.)

This is a really nice, high quality unit. Highly recommended.

September 05, 2010:

So even though I don’t appear to be getting a lot done on the floor, I really am progressing rather nicely. Over the last few weeks, I connected the dining room, kitchen, and hallway into the family room, and almost finished the kitchen.

If you remember from awhile back, I had left a few rows out of the dining room so I could finish the dining room before having to rip up all of the flooring across the length of the house. It’s time to finally fill that hole. I thought it would be easy to just slide a few pieces into the last row, but I was WRONG. Apparently, when the top AND the bottom of a row are locked in, it is pretty impossible to slide them left and right.

I was able to do 1 and a half boards manually before getting stuck. Hmm. What to do?

Can't slide these in any more. Hmm.

Ooh, I have an idea. Let’s use some airplane tools!

This is going to be fun. I have to get 4 of these in here.

It absolutely worked, but it took forever. Here’s a ridiculously oversized video file to help you see how it worked.

Nice, huh?

Looking good.

Okay, then, a few weeks passed, and I was bad with taking pictures. Anyway, I moved around the island, under the oven, and finally started converging on the back door.

Wuhoo, it's coming along!

And after another hour or so…just a few rows left in the kitchen.

Here, it was 5:30, (HALF AN HOUR INTO COCKTAIL HOUR!!!!) and I was being summoned to make drinks. I have all weekend to lay these last few rows. (Next weekend I should be able to finish up the family room.

I can taste the finish line, and it tastes like Rum and Coke…(oh wait…That’s just cocktail hour.)

September 12, 2010:

Wuhoo! Finished the kitchen. Sorry about the pictures, they were taken before the floor was mopped clean, but they still give you an idea of how much they’ve improved the house.

The final kitchen corner done. (The girlfriend was amazing today and took it upon herself to mop all of the floors. They look so good now!)

Then, I decided it was high time for all of you to get a look back at the rest of the kitchen. We used to hate the white cabinets, but with the right paint color, I think they will balance nicely with the granite. (You can see our existing paint color to the far left. The color just left and right of the range is the proposed new color. It will be dark, but it really plays nicely with the granite.) Okay. Now that I’ve said that, you can have one of my man cards.

Starting to look decent.

Now all I need to do is replace the dishwasher and microwave with stainless. Oh wait. I bought a new dishwasher on Labor day.

Real conversation:

Me: {struggling to install new dishwasher…} This is hard work. I thought Labor day was supposed to be relaxing.

Girlfriend: Why do you think they call it “Labor” Day?

Me: {pensively podering}…touché.

Beautiful new dishwasher.

All I have left is half of a family room…and all of the trim.

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel…

October 23, 2010:

So it’s not like I haven’t been working in the last month or so. I have been busily putting up trim and shoe molding.

Here’s the hallway done.

I like the rug.

Dining room done.

Living room done.

I guess I took another picture of the dining room. Oh well.

Up next, finish trim and shoe molding in the foyer.

November 28, 2010:

Well, over the last couple months, we’ve been putting up trim and shoe molding in all of the rooms. I don’t have any pictures, but we have the dining room, living room, foyer, hallway, and both closets completely done.

Today, the girlfriend is going to paint the trim in the kitchen while I FINALLY get all of the flooring layed. (Except in the powder room, which we are fully renovating…in a few weeks.)

I moved all the furniture off the remaining carpet.

(Last night, while we were drinking amazing wine and eating blue cheese and carmelized onion-topped NY Strips, I kept trying to get the girlfriend to sing that goodbye song ("nah nah, na-na-nah nah, hey hey yo, goodbye") to the carpet. It didn't work.)

After pulling up the carpet and padding, I went to work on the trim and tackstrip.

Fast foward 3 hours, and the rest of the floor is down. Wuhoo!

If you want to know about the white splotch on the wall, ask my dad.

All done! (I’ll put the trim and shoe molding back up in a week or so when we have a chance to sand and paint it, but we’re done!)

Most of the furniture back in the family room.

The only thing that is left now is the powder room and the trim in the family room.

January 02, 2011:

Well, I thought I’d be done by now, but I am pretty darn close. I got the trim and the shoe molding up in the family room, and we’re basically putting the final touches up (still need mirror, hardware, and faucet) in the powder room.

Trim and molding is up in the family room...now, which of those 4 colors to the right is your favorite?

Check out this powder room.

See, still need mirror, new light fixture, and faucet.

This green is totally awesome.

Not much more left…

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Primed Some Left Elevator Stiffeners

May 29, 2010

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Not too much today. I got the lower left elevator stiffeners deburred, dimpled and primed.

Here are some of the stiffeners on the priming table.

Then, I turned my attention back to the skin to start devinyling.

Left elevator, ready to be devinyled.

Here are a couple lines showing my devinlying process. These are made with a soldering gun held against a wooden straight-edge.

Oh yeah, almost forgot. I stumbled across another Harbor Freight coupon. I bought this ~$10 storage container for wing hardware.

I have two already, one for rivets, and one for Empennage hardware. I assume I'll need a third for wing hardware (I'll combine the rivets from wing and emp if need be).

Okay, back to the project. I’ve pulled off some of the vinly strips.

Pulled off some of the vinyl strips.

Here, my devinyl line overlaps the tracing a little.

Another angle here.

So I put the trim spar in position, and realized I could move the line back a little, so that's what I did.

Next, I deburred and scuffed the skin in preparation for dimpling. (It’s easier to scuff before dimpling.)

The lines to the right have been scuffed, the trim spar reinforcement area has not.

A closeup of scuffed versus not-scuffed.

To scuff an area (in preparation for priming), I scuff in one 45° direction…

45° to the right.

Then, 90° from that.

All done. You can sort of see the two directions.

Finally, some dry stiffeners, ready to be backriveted to the skins.

Pretty stiffeners.

I always like to take a big picture shot at the end of the day.

Left skin, ready for dimpling.

Tomorrow, maybe a little skin dimpling, priming, and backriveting stiffeners.

One hour.

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Left Elevator Stiffeners, Part Uno

May 26, 2010

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Another quick night in the shop. First thing, I fired up my 6″ grinder (with a scotchbrite wheel attached) and edge-finished half of the stiffeners. After that (about 45 minutes of the total 1 hour in the shop), I started the stiffener to skin drilling dance.) In this first picture, I’ve just placed the elevator trim backing plate in plate for the effect. On the right, my first two holes drilled (into a sacrificial piece of MDF) on the bottom of the left elevator.

Bottom of the left elevator, working from inboard to outboard.

Here are three of the shorter stiffeners drilled, and the forward most hole on the last four drilled.

3 done, 4 to go.

All of them drilled.

Next, I uncleco the assembly from the table, and recleco just the front and back holes of the stiffener so I can flip the skin over to match-drill the last hole (it’s prepunched in the skin, but not the stiffener on a couple of the stiffeners). Then, I traced around the stiffeners with a sharpie, then pulled them off and clecoed them to the outside of the skin, again, to trace them with a sharpie. This will help me figure out where to remove the blue vinyl later instead of just guessing (like I did with the right elevator.

Of course, the stiffeners don't go on the outside of the skins, I am using them to mark the outside of the skin for devinyling.

See? All traced.

The inside, too.

lastly, I removed the stiffeners and marked them before prep for priming.

B2 is upside labelled upside-down. Maybe I should remake the stiffener. /sarcasm off.

One boring hour today.

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Started Left Elevator

May 24, 2010

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Well, it’s monday. And even though I have a couple things remaining on the right elevator, I am going to follow the flow of the directions and move on to the left elevator before coming back to finish both of them.

In addition to the items they want you to do to both at the same time (roll leading edges, install rod-end bearings, etc.), I’ll have to come back to do three things on the right elevator:

  1. Fix a few over-driven rivets (and a couple that bent over that I didn’t catch at the time.)
  2. Figure out how to add RTV to the trailing edges after the fact (anyone have any ideas?)
  3. Trim down the counterbalance. I elected not to do this on purpose.

Anyway, on to the left elevator. Here’s the obligatory changing-of-the-plans shot.

On to the left elevator (and trim tab).

As I only have about a half an hour tonight, my plan was to just cover the basics. First, lay out all of the left elevator parts.

It doesn't look like a lot of work...

Devinyl the skeleton parts.

This picture is almost identical to the one before it, except for the missing blue vinyl on the skeleton parts.

Then, on to real work…kind of. The manual wants me to attach the hinge reinforcing plates to the spar, then move to the outer ribs.

Here you can see the two outer ribs fluted. I haven't straightened out the rib flanges yet, will get to that soon.

Blah blah blah, assemble the skeleton. For now, I didn’t do any match-drilling. I do that hole-by-hole as I take the thing apart.

This one will be more interesting due to the trim spar.

Finally, I found one more of the stiffener angles. I got that devinyled and then cut from hole to hole to form some of the smaller stiffeners.

More small stiffeners. These go between the main spar and the trim spar (ahead of the trim tab).

With that stuff done, I headed inside and caught someone with their hands in the cookie (doggie-treat) jar.

That bottom shelf has the doggie-treats on it. (We have really patient dogs. /sarcasm off)

Lucky you, I got some video.

Anyway, a short half hour of left elevator prep.
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