Automatic Compressor Drain Kit

December 13, 2009

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This afternoon (after a lot of research), I stopped by Harbor Freight and bought the Automatic Compressor drain kit.

Automatic Compressor Drain Kit

Automatic Compressor Drain Kit

I had come across this product on Mike Bullock’s site, and in particular, on his useful docs page (direct link to the .pdf here.)

Compressor pre-project

Close-up of the unloader line.

The parts that came with the Harbor Freight kit.

The assembly on the left goes underneath the compressor, (the auto-drain, towards the top in the picture), tees off from the manual drain (towards the bottom right of the assembly). The tee at the top of the picture gets installed in the unloader line, which provides pressure at compressor start-up and shut-down to the end of the auto-drain. That pressure moves a little diaphragm and valve that then opens a small hole in the auto-drain. You’ll see the final connections later.

Printout of Mike's Guide (it looks like it may actually be copyrighted by someone else. See Mike's page for more info.)

I’m ready to start.

The existing petcock (has a nice handle on it).

First, I removed the existing petcock.

The old petcock removed.

Needs a little cleaning, if you ask me.

Other side of the old petcock.

Here’s the new auto-drain (and tee) installed in the bottom of the compressor.

Tee and auto drain attached to the compressor.

The petcock that come with the autodrain was not as nice my original one, so I installed my original one to the tee. I had to be careful to make sure I had enough clearance when the compressor sits upright. I have about 1/16″.

Old petcock attached to the new drain tee.

Then I started running the plastic tubing from the auto-drain.

Plastic tubing attached to the auto-drain. (I haven't tightened down the nut, yet.)

Then, I stumbled across the part in the directions (both the Harbor Freight directions and the .pdf I had printed out) that mentioned that the kit I had just purchased included the unloader line tee meant for plastic unloader lines. Crap, mine’s copper. I’ll have to run to Lowe’s tomorrow to get a standard compression tee, then finish up. The .pdf notes that if you put the tee too close to the tank fitting, heat can make the plastic tubing get soft. I’m going to lengthen this connection to give me a little more room to work with when installing the tee.

The unloader line removed.

Sorry I didn’t finish. I got called inside to fix a crazy washer. (Wouldn’t drain or spin…grrr.)

January 1 update: I managed to fix the washer, but then had to go on vacation (feel sorry for me?). When I started the tail kit on Dec 30th, I powered up the compressor (still having not connected the plastic unloader line) and the automatic drain assembly leaked. Upon closer inspection, there was a HUGE CRACK in the side of the fitting. I packed it up and exchanged it for a new one at Harbor Freight. The new one should work, once I have some time to install it.

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More tools before starting

December 11, 2009

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Ordered some more tools today.  The Yard has graciously offered to send me the following after taking some of my money:

  • Fluting Pliers
  • Microstop New
  • 5-Piece Set 100 degree Countersinks
  • 4  Side-Grip Clecos Clamps 1/2″
  • 4    Side-Grip Clecos Clamps 1″
  • 25   K Series Spring Cleco 1/8″
  • 50   K Series Spring Cleco 3/16″
  • 2    #21 Cobalt Jobber Bit – 135 degree
  • 2    #12 Cobalt Jobber Bit – 135 degree

They should arrive sometime next week. I’ll update the post when the come in with some pictures.

Tools arrived!

Dec 25th update:

I bet some of you noticed I ordered 3/16″ clecos instead of 3/32″ When the box arrived, I was sure that the Yard had made a mistake, but I quickly realized the mistake was mine. After some research, I figured out I won’t need that many 3/16″ clecos, so it owuld be best if I could exchange them. Luckily, I was headed to Wichita the very next day for a wedding, and the Yard is conveniently located in Wichita.

Note: It is possible to bring a bag of 50 3/16″ clecos in a carry-on through airport security. Be prepared: the TSA will ask you why you are trying to bring bullets on the airplane. Ask me how I know.

When I was able to sneak away from the wedding festivities and make it to the Yard, the guy behind the counter didn’t have any problem with me exchanging for the right size. He even pointed out that I might want to go with used. Skeptically, I inspected a bag of 100 used 3/32″ clecos, and was satisfied with their quality. (Only saw a few with pro-seal on them.) at $0.25 a piece, I saved a bunch of money. Ha.

January update: Later, I saw that some of the clecos are stubby clecos, and some are unusable. I’ve gone through every one and thrown out about 10% of them.  I will probably stick with new clecos from now on. If nothing else, they look better in the pictures for you guys.

Anyway, let me get back to my Christmas. Oh, and Merry Christmas.

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Built Another Workbench

September 20, 2009

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I was bored this weekend, and thinking more about shop layout. I am very happy so far with the first EAA workbench I built, but I want another one against the wall in my garage, to have some space for a bench grinder, bandsaw, and drill press.  As you can see from the pictures, I added 2 additional shelves (for a total of three). The top two are spaced at 6 inches (5.25 after adding 3/4″ plywood/MDF) and the bottom one was fitted so the 2×4 crossbrace is on the floor (even with the bottom of the main support leg, a couple inches off the floor after adding casters.)

See the nice workbench in the background? That's the new one.

See the nice workbench in the background? That's the new one.

Here's a closeup. Notice the two extra shelves? That should be nice to store some airplane parts. Also, take note of the $20 swivel stool purchased from Northern Tool. I couldn't resist. Sorry. Also, please forgive the top shelf. I ran out of MDF, so I had to put the scrap pieces there for the sake of the picture. Again, please accept my apologies.

Here's a closeup. Notice the two extra shelves? That should be nice to store some airplane parts. Also, take note of the $20 swivel stool purchased from Northern Tool. I couldn't resist. Sorry. Also, please forgive the top shelf. I ran out of MDF, so I had to put the scrap pieces there for the sake of the picture. Again, please accept my apologies.

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Ordered some more tools. Again.

September 15, 2009

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Ordered some more tools today. I’ll update the post when they come in. I’ve been ordering from The Yard, given the price advantage. Until I run into bad quality, I’ll probably just continue along that route. I’m sure some of you may have some comments about that.

Here’s the list. So far, project costs is $596 dollars. I have a spreadsheet I keep with estimated cost for each tool, then my actual costs, including shipping (free if order is over $100 with the yard). Then I calculate how much I save for each tool or item. I’m estimating I’ve saved about $678 by shopping around vigorously.

K Series Spring Cleco 3/32″ (0-1/4″)
K Series Spring Cleco 1/8″ (0-1/4″)
Cleco Pliers with Grip
#30 High-Speed Jobber Bit – 135 degee Split Point
#40 High-Speed Jobber Bit – 135 degee Split Point
Auto Center Punch Large
Safety Glasses Clear
Plastic Spring Clamp Small
Plastic Spring Clamp Medium
12″ Drill Bit High Speed #30 AED
12″ Drill Bit High Speed #40 AED
Dimple Die Set 3/32″ Male/Female
Dimple Die Set 1/8″ Male/Female

9/18/09 Update: The above ordered tools arrived, and I am again happy with their quality. I added some more spaces to the right of my rivet/squeezer/dimple set tool holder of sorts. Here are a few pics of the tools and their new home.

A closeup of the first of many clecos.

A closeup of the first of many clecos.

 

Clecos and Pliers. I sprung for the pliers with handles. High class, huh?

Clecos and Pliers. I sprung for the pliers with handles. High class, huh?

DRILL BITS!

DRILL BITS!

Dimple Dies.

Dimple Dies.

Everything in the order.

Everything in the order.

And a punch.

And a punch.

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More tools arrive

September 5, 2009

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A few days ago I ordered some more tools from the Yard. Aquisitions include:

A Hand Squeezer
11 Piece Squeezer set
Edge deburring tool
Air gun (not RV related, but for the shop anyway).

Today, I think I’m going to build a small storage rack (2×4 with some holes drilled into it) for my rivet and squeezer sets. I built one the other night that I wasn’t happy with, so I’m going to try again. Here are a few pictures from the effort. Basically I laid out all the things that I thought could roll off the workbend when I needed them (plus the bucking bar, that won’t roll). Then I drilled the 2×4 to correct size, making sure to be sloppy with the drill (I want there to be some play for a loose fit).

Pictures from Saturday Sep 5 017 (Medium)

Here they are laid out.

Pictures from Saturday Sep 5 022 (Medium)

After sanding, priming, and putting the sets into my holder, here is the final product. The space to the right is reserved for drill bits and dimple die sets. (I originally stole the idea from someone talking about drill bits. They said they always grabbed the wrong one, lost them, etc.) This is my version of the solution.

I think I’ll put 3 or 4 of the most commonly used bits to the right along with some dimple die sets. I like it so far. We’ll see if I just leave it on the workbench or actually mount it somewhere. Maybe somehwere attached to the workbench, or maybe on the wall by the compressor. I’ll think about it.

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EAA Workbench Completed

August 30, 2009

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After some planning about space and layout in the garage, I decided to dive into the construction of a workbench. I’ve heard (and seen on some builder’s sites) some of the EAA 1000 Workbenches, and I thought that would be a good first workbench. I’ll use that one for awhile before building a second one, hopefully with some improvements.

UPDATE: I built a second one. See the other post for pictures of the second one.

EAA Chapter 1000 Standard workbench plans.
EAA Chapter 1000 Standard workbench instructions.

Here’s a couple before pictures of my garage.

Workbench Construction 008

I love the lighting. There was a single incandescent bulb in the gargage before. Also, I lined the garage doors with some double sided bubble foil I bought off eBay. I would say adding that decreased the temperature in my garage in the middle of the summer by 10 degrees. Good investment.

Workbench Construction 009

I also installed pegboard along the entire NW wall and on the half of the SE wall that wasn't finished. The tools are just thrown up on the wall for now; I promise to get organized before I purchase the empennage kit.

Workbench Construction 010

Some shelves I built early after moving in for more space. Look closely, and you can see my cornhole boards supporting some old laptop speakers. When hooked up to my iPhone, they are loud enough to hear through my hearing protection (which I use religiously with power tools).

Workbench Construction 011

Smaller shelves on the SE wall (and more pegboard). Good for tools.

Workbench Construction 013

Here's the top of the workbench (you build from the top down). Instead of 5 feet (60"), I decided to do 6 feet (72"). I added another rib (airplane talk!) which makes the spacing 14.1" on center (Instead of the ~15" mentioned in the EAA plans).

Workbench Construction 015

The legs and leg doublers got cut and mocked up. And no, I am not working barefoot.

Workbench Construction 016

Then I built the lower shelf unit (using scrap wood for spacing).

Workbench Construction 017

It's actually starting to look like a workbench.

Workbench Construction 018

After adding the other leg doublers, I fastened some 200 lb locking casters on the bottom. I stuck to the plans on height (33") because I knew the casters would add a few inches. My sawhorses were built to 36", and I am happy with that height. The finished work bench is pretty close to 36".

Workbench Construction 021

Flipped and looking like a workbench.

Then I cut some Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) for the benchtop, overhanging each side by about 3". I've been told to do this so I can clamp airplane parts to the bench more easily. Figuring I'd be replacing the top a few times during the project, I secured it down with some countersunk screws. Hopefully I'll get the vise bolted down in the next few days.

Then I cut some Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) for the benchtop, overhanging each side by about 3". I've been told to do this so I can clamp airplane parts to the bench more easily. Figuring I'd be replacing the top a few times during the project, I secured it down with some countersunk screws. Hopefully I'll get the vise bolted down in the next few days.

Is this where I say, “Ta Daaaa…”?

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Rivet Gun Purchased

August 27, 2009

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Against some advice, I opted for the eBay purchase of a Rivet gun:

CP4X

Chicago Pneumatic 4X Rivet Gun

Chicago Pneumatic 4x Rivet Gun Riveter
Model: CP4444 RUTAB
Comes with AN470 3/32″, 1/8″, 5/32″ & 3/16″ Rivet Sets
3 Flush Sets
2 Rivet Set Retaining Springs
1 Conavair Aircraft Bucking Bar

August 31 update:

The rivet gun showed up, was in great shape, and after a few tries against the bucking bar, I believe I have determined that it works. How long it will last, however, is another story. I am happy for now that I have a gun that works and that it didn’t break the bank.

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Started buying some tools…

August 22, 2009

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I saw a factory refurbished air compressor today for $119 from Northern Tool & equipment. It’s a Morgan Series Reconditioned Portable Vertical Air Compressor — 26 Gallon, 1.5 HP 4 CFM, Model# F226R.

Morgan Series Reconditioned Portable Vertical Air Compressor — 26 Gallon, 1.5 HP 4 CFM, Model# F226R

The quality looks good, and it only took about 2 minutes to pressurize all the way up to 150 psi.

I know a few of you will not be excited about the reconditioned part (or the oil-free part), but given that I’m not ready to drop $400 on an air compressor right now, I’m calling the $119 a huge savings. And, I’ll be able to fill my own tires, have some air tools for other projects, and provide the power needed to replace the hardwood floors in a few years. If the thing breaks in a year, I’ll replace it with a better unit, and call the $119 a good price for an intro level compressor. I believe the 4.0 CFM will suffice, but we’ll see when I actually get started.

To test function, I had to buy an Air drill (Northern Industrial Air Drill — 3/8in. Chuck, 1800 RPM, 4 CFM, Reversible, Keyless) for $49, a lightweight air hose (Northern Industrial Air Hose — 1/4in. x 35ft., Clear, Urethane) for $15, and air tool lubrication. Then I got home and realized I didn’t have the quick change fitting to plug into the compressor. Maybe tonight I’ll stop by to get some quick change fittings.

Northern Industrial Air Drill — 3/8in. Chuck, 1800 RPM, 4 CFM, Reversible, Keyless

Northern Industrial Air Hose — 1/4in. x 35ft., Clear, Urethane

I also grabbed some of the color coded air couplers from Northern Tool and Equipment. I couldn’t find them on the internet, but they are red Type D couplers. No one in the store could tell me what the different types were for, but they assured me they would work.

I got home, hooked everything up, put some lube in the air drill per the first time operating instructions, and fired it up.

What a sweet sound.

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