Started Riveting Right Flap Hinge to Wing

November 3, 2012

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Whoa. He’s back. Again. I know the updates have been few and far between, but please rest assured: I have not been working on the airplane without updating the site. I guess that’s not a good thing either…

I spent a few hours today cleaning out the garage and reorganizing a little.

Much better. (Sorry, you don’t get a “before” shot.)

Then, I decided to work on the airplane. Since I haven’t coordinate the cousin to come over and bang out some of these bottom skin rivets, I figured I could rivet the flap hinge up until it prevents me from bending back the skin.

It should be just a couple rivets.

I do need to trim the one side of the flap hinge, though.

You can just barely see that I made a mark on the hinge.

After removing the flap.

Here’s the trim line on the outboard side of the hinge.

This is pretty self-explanatory.

This one, too.

Oh yeah, I needed to smooth out the eyelet remnants where I had snipped them off to make a centrally-inserted set of hinge pins. See this post for more.

All smooth.

Looks pretty good on the outboard side.

Same on the inboard side.

Let’s get to riveting. The rivet callout here is an AN426AD3-4.

I love these yellow bins. Highly recommended for your project.

I didn’t really feel like getting out the rivet gun (and I can’t use my no-hole yoke because the eyelets get in the way), so I made it work with my economy squeezer.

An action shot!

After 8 perfect rivets, I couldn’t help but take a picture of some shop heads.

Look at how perfect that guy is!

0.5 hour. 8 rivets. Again. Not bad for not working on it in 2 months.

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Devinyled Right Tank

November 28, 2010

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Well, after spending 10 or so hours in and out of the (very cold) garage finishing the wood floors today, I felt like working on the airplane, but I felt like being WARM, so I thought some devinyling was in order.

I grabbed the next big part in the airplane parts room, and got to work on the kitchen table (sorry girlfriend!).

Because of all the rivet and screw holes and all the cris-crossing patterns, it took me an hour for this whole skin (not the usual 30 minutes per wing skin…those were easy).

Also, I know that the instructions say to just pull out all the vinyl from the insides of the tank, but I figure I’ll let the vinyl act as tape lines for the proseal I’ll be using to seal the ribs to the skin on the inside.

Here's the inside of the right tank after devinyling.

The top side.

And the bottom.

1.0 hour of devinyling fun tonight.

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Started Prepping Left Elevator Skeleton

July 2, 2010

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Even though it was my day off, I spent the day trying not to get stung by bees (mowing the forest behind my fence) and meeting the girlfriend for food. After that, I managed to waste an hour or so installing a fan in the garage. Recently, it’s been brutal in the garage, so this morning, while I was walking around Lowe’s, I saw a small ceiling fan for $17. I couldn’t say no. It was harder to install than our nicer fans inside (no little quick-disconnect fan blades or anything), but in the end, it makes me cooler in the garage (double meaning intended).


Okay, back to work. I think you guys might have seen this picture yesterday, but here it is again…the little riblet I made after drilling.

Looks good. I am proud of this little guy.

Then, I moved over to the spar. These four holes get countersunk because they attach E-705, but the elevator horn has to sit over the rivets but still flush against the forward face of the web.

Beautiful countersinks.

While I had the countersink cage set up, I pulled the trim tab spar out of the elevator and started on it.

Countersink the top flange, dimple the bottom flange.

Aren't these countersinks nice?

After countersinking, both the tab spar and the left elevator main spar were scuffed (more), edge-finished, and then got a trip inside to the sink for a quick rinse before coming back outside to eventually get a coat of primer.

I'm getting close to riveting something, watch out!

Anyway, two very productive hours, and I think I can rivet some reinforcement plates tomorrow if I want. Wuhoo!

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June 22, 2010

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After getting stung by a wasp two times in the last two days trying to mow the lawn in the backyard, I gave up (shows determination and perseverance, huh?) and retreated to the comfort of my garage for some airplane work (the floors can wait until tomorrow).

Back to the tab. Before I do any more cutting on the elevator, I want to get the tab hinge drilled so I know exactly where the outboard edge of the tab will swing. I am doing this before they really tell you to in the directions (the directions have you actually finish the elevator, then start working on the tab.

Anyway, you are supposed to draw a line 1/4″ from the loop edge of the tab, and first matchdrill that to the tab. (I started with the elevator side, which eventually bit me in the ass. Read on.)

I decided to mark both sides with the 1/4" line. Hmm. Doesn't look like there is going to be a lot of edge distance.

Then, I took the hinge apart (you can see the hinge pin in the next photo) and clamped the elevator side to the elevator, lining up my 1/4″ line in the first prepunched hole, and aligning the first hinge loop where I thought it looked good (making sure this fit with the plans).

Hint: If you take apart the hinge, you can easily clamp the hinge half to the elevator (and tab, with the other half).

Next, I lined up the outboard side. This tab hinge is nice and square with the edge, and with the holes.

Let’s drill!

Here are 6 holes drilled (I'm working inboard to outboard).

All done with the elevator side.

Next, I reassembled the hinge and spent a few minutes just kind of getting everything lined up.

I wish this were the final product, but this is just me mocking things up before drilling.

With the greatest of coordination, I managed to hold a straight-edge against the inboard edge, line up the inboard pre-punched hole with the 1/4″ line, and line up the trailing edge of the tab with the trailing edge of the elevator, AND take this picture. Boo-ya.

Looks good so far.

Then, I drilled the inboard hole. The inboard side is perfect. (Can you tell that some other part may not be by the way I phrased that?)

If you look closely (lower left corner), you can see that the tab trailing edge is further aft than the elevator trailing edge.

I was pissed. I lined up the hinge with the elevator edges and holes, and with the tab edges and holes. This means that either the elevator or the tab isn’t perfectly square.

I thought about just moving the tab forward, but then there would be slightly different distances between the skins from inboard to outboard. I measured it…it would have been about 1/32 difference. No one would have noticed except for me.

But…I can’t leave it alone. I’m going to reorder the hinge and try again. This time, I’m still not going to follow the directions. If you make the hinge perfectly square to the tab, it’s going to be off on the elevator side. I’m going to have to split the difference between both by first clamping the tab in perfect position, then clamping the hinge in place and matchdrilling a few holes.

Admittedly, I should have followed the directions by starting with the tab edge, but it wouldn’t have mattered, it still wouldn’t have been a perfectly square hinge line after I was done.

The tab hinge is AN257-P2 according to the materials list in Section 4, but the part shows MS20257-2.

I also think, given my edge distance worries (must be okay because it is per the plans? I don’t know), I am going to order the MS20257-3 (or AN257-P3, which is 1 + 1/4″ wide instead of 1 + 1/16″). I checked with Van’s, and they want $9.70 (plus $4 handling, plus $12 shipping or something) for an 24″ piece of AN257-P3.

I checked aircraft spruce, and they wanted $4.75 for a 3′ piece and $1.73 shipping via USPS.

Which one do I choose?

Duh. $6.48 for my first re-ordered part. Bummer. (It’s better than a $60 elevator skin, though!)

Here are my edge distances.

I love this kind of building. Thinking, playing, mocking up, etc. The normal matdrilling dance gets old…this is the stuff I really like.

1.0 hour tonight. Frustrating, but fun.

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First of Many New Garage Shelves

May 16, 2010

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The front wall of my garage is a little chaotic. I have an old armoire (whoa, I had to go to wikipedia to figure out how to spell this) out there holding some airplane things, and then a set of collapsible shelves that basically hold small things that don’t hang on the walls (pegboard) easily.

I need to get a little more organized, but I’m limited because of the 45° support holding up my overhead shelves.

Workbench Construction 010

This was an early picture, without the other shelving unit.

Anyway, I want to push any newly-constructed shelves back against the wall, so unless I want to limit myself to 5 feet tall (no!), I need to limit the width to about 28 inches.

I’m going to use the same construction technique as the two workbenches (here and here) I built. Here’s the plan:

Here's the concept. 6 feet tall, 28 inches wide. Various heights for the shelves.

First up, cut some wood!

The ones on the left are the left-to-right supports, the shorter ones on the left are the forward-and-aft supports.

Then, I took the long ones and the short ones and mocked them up in this little jig (for squareness) before drilling.

My drilling and assembly jig.

Then, for some reason, I took a picture of the wall.

The wall. No more description needed.

Then, like the airplane, I decided to drill pilot holes first.

I believe the drill bit on the left is 1/8".

Then, I started assembly.

Here's the first shelf complete. (And my Dewalt circular saw.)

Two of six.

Oops, I stopped taking pictures of the assembly.

After the frame was complete, I attached some non-locking wheels to the bottom.

Finally a couple days later, I started loading the thing up (will be organized and labelled later) and snapped this picture.

It looks crooked in the picture, but it really isn't. And yes, that is (expensive) MDF for shelves. It just seemed like the right thing to do.

I went with (from top to bottom) a 12″ inch shelf, then two 6″ shelves, then another 12″ shelf, then an 18″ shelf.

The idea is that I build 5 more of these (for each of the areas between those 45° supports to vastly increase my storage space in the garage. Also, they are not attached to anything, so I am going to wheel them onto the moving truck in a few years if I decide to move.

What do you guys think?

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