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Sorry for the tardiness on the commentary. Here it is.
I decided after riveting the trim reinforcement plate that I will stick with the right elevator for now. Of course, here is the obligatory plans picture.
On to the right elevator.
Instead of following the directions to start in on the stiffeners, I sorted through my lower workbench shelves and pulled out the parts for the right elevator skeleton. I just laid them on the (very dirty) workbench and grabbed this picture.
Right elevator skeleton, ready to rivet. Just kidding.
First up, prepare the two end ribs (edge finish, then flute).
Here they are (E-703 and E-704), sitting nice and flat with each other.
I can’t remember why I took this picture. Maybe after I removed the blue vinyl?
right elevator spar.
Then, it’s time to match-drill the two end ribs together.
The two end ribs clecoed together for match-drilling.
After that, they want you to cleco the two end ribs onto the rear spar. You can see some misalignment here.
See the spar flange hole and how it doesn't line up with the counterbalance rib?
Here's the other side, still not aligned very well.
After some manipulation via fluting and flange straightening, I managed to get everything lined up and match-drilled.
Here's my 12" bit, doing what it does best.
Here’s the outboard assembly after match-drilling.
Ready for disassembly.
Next, they want you to cleco in the counterbalance skin with the counterweight.
There's the right elevator counterweight.
I read on some other builders’ sites that it was difficult to cleco the counterbalance skin on the rib assembly. I didn’t have too much trouble, but it was definitely easier to work front to back.
Counterweight clecoed in.
Next (before going back to the counterweight for drilling), I clecoed on the inboard rib. These are matchrileld to #40, then dimpled and set with flush rivets on the front web of the spar. The reason? The elevator horn must sit flush on this surface. You’ll see later.
E-709 Root rib clecoed on.
Now back to the counterweight. Van’s wants you to matchdrill these to #12. I started with a #40 and worked my way up, blatantly ignoring the advice to use drill lubrication. Of course, I broke 3 bits before I subdued my own stubbornness and moved on to something else.
Broken bit, I need to get some Boelube.
I managed to get some locking needle-nose pliers around the bit and back it out slowly.
Anyway. I moved on to the skeleton.
Here's the skeleton clecoed together and match-drilled. You can see where the elevator horn will sit flush on the spar web necessitating the flush rivets between the spar and the root rib.
Then, I spent a little time inside on the stiffeners. I just rough cut them with snips to the general size.
These are for both elevators, some of these will be cut down further for the smaller required stiffeners between the trim spar and main spar on the left elevator.
2.0 hours today.
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