Devinyled Right Tank

November 28, 2010

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Well, after spending 10 or so hours in and out of the (very cold) garage finishing the wood floors today, I felt like working on the airplane, but I felt like being WARM, so I thought some devinyling was in order.

I grabbed the next big part in the airplane parts room, and got to work on the kitchen table (sorry girlfriend!).

Because of all the rivet and screw holes and all the cris-crossing patterns, it took me an hour for this whole skin (not the usual 30 minutes per wing skin…those were easy).

Also, I know that the instructions say to just pull out all the vinyl from the insides of the tank, but I figure I’ll let the vinyl act as tape lines for the proseal I’ll be using to seal the ribs to the skin on the inside.

Here's the inside of the right tank after devinyling.

The top side.

And the bottom.

1.0 hour of devinyling fun tonight.

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Prepping and Priming Some Rear Spar Components

November 20, 2010

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Oh man, I’m furious. I just spent some time doing a huge writeup for this post, and when I clicked, “Post”, it deleted all of my text.

Grrr.

I’ll try to rewrite it, but it is going to have a little bit of an annoying tone.

Anyway, I managed to get out in the shop today for a little. I had previously gotten all of the doubler plates and reinforcement forks matchdrilled to the spar, so today was all about prepping and priming.

Here’s W-707F, which sits on the back side of the left spar. I’ve deburred and scuffed it; all I need to do now is dimpled the outboard holes in preparation for attaching it to the spar and outboardmost rib.

I love scuffed parts. They hide my fingerprints.

Here’s W-707E, which is the doubler plate that sits on the aft side of the rear spar, right in the middle. I’ve marked the cutout for the aileron push tube. Where’s that step drill?

Yup, here you can see my fingerprints.

I started looking around for my stepdrill. I spent good money on that stepdrill, but I couldn’t find it anywhere. On the workbench, under the workbench, on the floor, in some other shelves. I thought maybe I put it in some other tool’s case, so I got out the dremel tool, multifunction tool, jig saw, circular saw, etc. Nothing.

I even accused the girlfriend of selling it on the black market to fund an bottle of Opus One. She insisted that while she thought about it, she didn’t.

I remember putting it in this old small cabinet of drawers (that my dad gave me when I graduated college…thanks, dad!). I spent about 30 minutes just pulling out each one of these drawers, looking for my step-drill. Grrr.

After continuing to work on the airplane (angrily) for another 30 minutes, I finally found it when I came back to the drawers and opened them with my other hand. Apparently my sausage fingers (they’re not, I promise…I’m just mad) blocked my view of the stepdrill, which was right behind the lip of the VERY FIRST DRAWER.

Ugh.

Anyway. Back to the rear spar. This is the forward side of the left spar, outboard end. I’ve deburred the edges of the whole spar, and now I’m deburring all of the holes I drilled.

I always scuff the areas where there are holes I've drilled and deburred. Helps me keep the "did I do this already" time to a minimum.

Oh yeah, I managed to get a couple parts primed today. Like riveting, I always feel like it is a productive day if I can prime some things.

You can also see my primer of choice, Napa 7220.

Here’s the other side of those pieces (after plenty of drying time).

I like priming.

Back to the spar, more deburring holes and scuffing.

I'll finish scuffing the whole spar when I get closer to priming.

This is the middle of the rear spar, around the aileron pushtube hole. More deburring and scuffing.

Jeesh, there are fingerprints everywhere.

Finally, I brought the two primed parts back inside.

Primed parts on the workbench always means we're getting close to riveting. Wuhoo!

After this was about when I finally found my step-drill. I was too angry at myself to keep going, so I headed inside to some grilled chicken, jasmine rice, and creamed corn. Mmmm.

1.5 hours

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Countersunk Left Main Spar, Drilled Left Rear Spar

November 13, 2010

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Well, I managed to motivate myself out into the garage a little this weekend.

I only have a few more steps on the left main spar, and the the left rear spar, before I really need to get my butt in gear with the rib deburring and finally build a wing stand.

Today, I focused on countersinking the screw holes for the tank attachment.

Reading back over my own old post (in which I reference some other builders), I found this table. I’ll copy it here, too.

Countersink Widths for Numbered Screws
Screw Size Width [in]
#6 <0.3125
#8 0.365-0.375

So, I broke out my trusty digital calipers, zeroed them out, and dialed in .312.”

Sorry for the blurry picture.

So, with microstop countersink cage on the front of my drill, I got to work. Here are the smaller countersinks for the #6 inspection plate attach screws on the bottom flange of the left spar.

Pretty countersinks.

Then, I moved up to the 0.370″ countersinks for the larger #8 tank attach holes.

Looking good.

Somewhere in here I flipped the spar over and finished all the countersinking on the upper flange of the left spar.

Sweet.

After the countersinking, I scrounged up the left rear spar and corresponding doubler plates.

Left Rear Spar, reinforcement fork, and doublers.

Per the plans, I grabbed the W-707E and aligned it 50 3/4″ from the outboard edge of the rear spar.

I promise it is right at 50 3/4". I think the paralax make it look off.

W-707F is laterally aligned with the outboard edge of the rear spar channel.

W-707F is clamped and ready to matchdrill.

Here’s W-707E, ready to drill.

After drilling one #30 hole.

All done.

Then, I moved outboard to W-707F.

Before matchdrilling.

All done.

I call this the forest of clecos.

I moved inboard and matchdrilled all of the reinforcement fork holes.

A lot of drilling.

I pulled the doubler plates and reinforcement fork off and set them aside.

I still need to drill out the aileron pushtube bracket hole.

Reinforcement fork pulled off.

Next up, deburr all parts, along with finishing any last minute tasks like dimpling where I can’t reach later, then prep for priming, prime, and rivet the rear spar together.

1.5 hours.

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Tank Attach Nutplates, Left Upper Spar Flange

October 23, 2010

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After getting a ton of housework done, I managed a quick half hour in the garage to finish up the nutplates on the left spar.

I took some pictures, but they are just like the ones from the previous post, so I’ll be short with the descriptions.

 

Countersinking.

 

I found it a little quicker (and less tiring on the drilling arm) to do 4 at a time. I’d countersink four sets of holes for the nutplate attach rivets, then cleco one side of a K1100-08 nutplate in, squeeze the rivet, and then take out the cleco and rivet the other side in. Then move on to the next four.

I’m sure it didn’t actually save me any time, but for some reason it seemed quicker.

 

Just squeezed the first four rivets on this flange.

 

 

Nice looking shop heads, if I do say so myself.

 

 

Another angle, I guess?

 

 

Remove the cleco.

 

 

Put in the other rivet (man, I was really camera happy today...)

 

Everything was going great until the VERY LAST RIVET.

[sigh]

 

For some reason I lifted up the squeezer as I set the rivet.

 

 

Another angle (except it's the same angle). Sorry.

 

After successfully drilling the rivet out. I was left with a crooked nutplate. Hmm.

 

Problem solving time!

 

I didn’t have a clamp small enough to hold the nutplate in place while I reset the rivet, so I grabbed one of the #8 screws (forgot the part number, sorry), and screwed it in gently.

 

Wuhoo! I think this is going to work!

 

asdf

 

(Screwed in gently) because I hadn't countersunk yet. This worked great.

 

 

See, I told you it worked great.

 

Last, but not least, I squeezed the AN426AD3-6 rivets for the K1000-4 nutplates near the spar root.

 

Flush side...

 

 

Nutplate side.

 

64 Rivets, ONE drilled out  in 0.5 hours.

Oh, and then I went for a run with the pups. (And by run, I mean rollerblade.)

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Tank Attach Nutplates, Left Lower Spar Flange

October 21, 2010

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With the girlfriend gone for the night, I managed to clean up all of the electrical stuff I had out messing around with my wig-wag experiment, and pulled the left spar out of the box. Here it is, in all of it’s golden glory.

Golden Glory!

First step is to countersink the tank (and access plate) nutplate attach holes. First, you have to run a #40 drill through the holes or else the countersink pilot won’t even fit in the hole. Here’s one of my first countersinks on the left spar.

I went back and cleaned this one up after testing with a AN426AD3-11 rivet (-11 because it's easier to get back out while testing countersinks...it's so long you can just push it back out from the back.)

These countersinks are a little better. (The one on the right is a tad deep, but should be okay because these are just nutplate attach holes.)

I left the door to the house open so the pups could come out to visit.

Hey guys (Jack and Ginger).

Hey Andrew, how about one of those artsy shots down the spar after countersinking the nutplate attach holes?

Sure, here you go.

Then, I pulled the K1100-08 nutplates out for the tank attach holes and the K1000-06 nutplates out for the access plate holes, then clecoed one side in, and put the required rivet (AN426AD3-4) in the holes.

Where’s my squeezer?

It's right there on the table, dummy.

Then I squeezed some rivets and removed the clecos.

Squeezed (repeated 41 more times.)

Other side done. (Repeated 41 more times.)

Under the hood, things look good. I still like this new Cleveland main squeeze much better than my economy squeezer.

Pretty shop heads.

Down the row.

I then laid the spar down and saw this guy.

Yikes.

Whoa. Scary.

After a little internet research, I think I’ve figured out he (actually she due to her size) is a red-back.  I’m going to keep looking though. I don’t want it to be a red-back.

1.0 hour. 84 rivets.

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FINISHED DEVINYLING WING SKINS!

October 18, 2010


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WUHUOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

(Not that I don’t like devinyling…)

No really, it’s kind of mindless, easy time-passing.

The real reason this is a win is that it is really the last thing (except for all of the leading edge, aileron, and flap skins) I can devinyl in the airplane room before needing to buckle down, finish up the floors, and really get started on the wings.

 

I think this is the right upper outboard skin, skeleton side.

 

 

And the other side.

 

Once I really get going on the other side, I need to catch the left main spar up to where the right is, build the left rear spar, and then do the rib prep trick. Then, I’ll build a wing stand and start the fun parts (Ha! They’re all fun parts!)

0.5 hours.


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Devinyled Two More Wing Skins

October 6, 2010

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Well, I manage to put in another “inside” night tonight on the airplane.

I’m not sure why I took this picture. I think I was waiting for the soldering iron to heat up.

Some of the airplane parts in the corner. I need to get back to drilling out the rudder skins one of these days.

Anyway, I finished up the right lower outboard wing skin, and then moved on to one of the upper outboard wing skins (they are identical, so it isn’t a left or right).

Here's the right lower outboard wing skin before devinyling.

And after.

I totally forgot to take any pictures of the upper outboard wing skin I got done.

One hour tonight (30 minutes per skin). One more short session, and all my skins should be devinlyed.

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Devinyled Left Lower Outboard Wing Skin

October 4, 2010

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Not much work tonight, but I did manage to escape to the workout room (after a workout!) and devinyl the left lower outboard wing skin. I can’t think of anything funny or insightful to say about it.

Sorry.

 

Upper (towards the wing skeleton) side.

 

 

Lower (towards the bottom of the wing) side.

 

Half an hour of vinyl-removing fun.

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Drilled Wiring and Conduit Holes in Ribs

October 3, 2010

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Alright, a little off-topic, but I have to talk about food for a minute. Friday night, I got home from a very hard day at the office, and my wonderful girlfriend announced we are having steak (see? I told you she was wonderful). I also nailed the cooking times on the grill.

Also, that is stuffed squash and zucchini. Amazing.

Then on Saturday, she announced we were having “the best chili you will ever have” for our football date (see! amazing!).

Vandy lost, UNC won, but more importantly, the chili was amazing. Let me know if you want the recipe, but beware, it calls for a cup of strong coffee and a bottle of dark beer. Crazy good recipe, though.

Mmm. Chili.

Okay, back to the airplane.

After a big day on the house, I decided that tonight was all about the ribs.

I scoured a few build sites for ideas, but I basically need to come up with wire routing for the wings. I’m going to use tables to stay organized.

Wiring Requirements
Left Wing Pitot Total Pressure (the “pitot” part of the pitot tube)

AOA Total Pressure (…angled down)

Heated pitot leads

Landing Light (wingtip)

Taxi Light (wingtip)

Nav/strobe lights (probably AeroLeds)

Van’s Stall Warning (can’t decided between this and AOA for stall protection…also, is this left or right wing? Can’t remember)

Right Wing Landing Light (wingtip)

Taxi Light (wingtip)

Nav/strobe (probably AeroLeds)

Autopilot servo

Wingtip NAV antenna? (maybe)

So I clearly need more stuff in the left wing than the right wing, but I decided to drill everything the same way.

As far as the ribs are concerned, there are two flavors of ribs with respect to the tooling holes as provided in the ribs from the factory. (They talk about flavor of ribs in the manual, too, but they are talking about part numbers and flange orientations, I am talking just about the tooling hole arrangements.)

There are 14 total ribs.

The first 11 ribs (counting from inboard to outboard) have three tooling holes in the front part of the web (just behind the main spar). The top and bottom holes are small, and the middle one is 7/16″. I decided (based on a lot of other builder’s sites, and the guidance from the Construction FAQs from Van’s that I’ll enlarge the top and bottom holes to 3/8″. (I’ll get to the other flavor of ribs in a little.)

Here's a before (front) and after (aft).

By the way, I used my brand new #4 Unibit to drill these. I stared at the Unibit from harbor freight (~$15) for awhile, and then decided this is probably something I am going to use a lot and appreciate if it is higher quality. I sprung for the $42 one from Lowes-Aviation.

I think it goes from 3/16" to 7/8" in 1/16" increments.

So, after knocking all of the right wing ribs out, I gathered up the left wing ribs, labelled their positions and orientations, and did those 3/8″ holes, too.

Looking good so far.

The next flavor of ribs are the three outboard ribs (I’m missing one from the picture, look further down.)

They come with one hole in the forward part of the rib. I decided that I would just enlarge that hole to 3/8″ and not try to duplicate all three holes. (The construction FAQ sheet referenced earlier only talks about enlarging tooling holes in this location, not creating new holes.)

2 of the 3 outboard ribs done.

Here's the outboard most rib (upside down from the rest). Van's wants you to leave this one now for help in aileron alignment. I can deal with that.

Now, back to the construction FAQ. Van’s does let you drill a brand-spanking-new 3/4″ hole.

An additional hole may be drilled in the lower 1/3 of the rib between the large lightening hole and the next one aft. This hole may be up to 3/4” diameter to accommodate our wiring conduit (DUCT NT 5/8-50) or Bushing SB750-10 (5/8” I.D.). The conduit is light and flexible. It’s .810 “ outside diameter means that when snapped into place, the corrugations hold it from slipping out. If using the conduit, a dab of fuel tank sealant or RTV should be put on the conduit at each rib to prevent the conduit from being cut through over time from vibrations.

Sweet. I created a makeshift template. and started marking the center of the hole.

(Some people go crazy with this alignment. After reading a lot of other experiences, I reminded myself that this is a flexible conduit hole. They don’t have to be perfectly aligned. Although, after everything was all said and done, they were pretty darn aligned.) Don’t waste a lot of time here on a special tool. Cardboard worked great.

Fancy-schmancy hole alignment tool.

So, after punching 28 3/4″ size holes in both the left and right wing ribs, this is what I ended up with. (Really 3 flavors.)

11 inboard ribs each side with 3 holes and a conduit hole, 2 outboard-ish ribs each side with 1 hole and a conduit hole, and 1 outboard rib with 1 hole (that needs to be enlarged) and a conduit hole.

Of course, I had to lay out all the right wing ribs for this completely unnecessary picture.

Tada! (The left ribs are done, too, but they are stored back on the shelf.)

Okay, now that I’ve drilled the maximum amount of approved holes in each of the ribs, let’s figure out where this stuff should go.

Wiring/Conduit Plans in Ribs
Left Right
Rib # 3/8″ 7/16″ 3/8″ 3/4″ Conduit 3/8″ 7/16″ 3/8″ 3/4″ Conduit
1 Pitot Pitot Heat, Stall Warn AOA Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
Servo VHF? Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
2 Pitot Pitot Heat, Stall Warn AOA Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
Servo VHF? Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
3 Pitot Pitot Heat, Stall Warn AOA Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
Servo VHF? Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
4 Pitot Pitot Heat, Stall Warn AOA Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
Servo VHF? Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
5 Pitot Pitot Heat, Stall Warn AOA Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
Servo VHF? Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
6 Pitot Pitot Heat, Stall Warn AOA Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
Servo VHF? Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
7 Pitot Pitot Heat, Stall Warn AOA Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
Servo VHF? Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
8 Pitot Pitot Heat, Stall Warn AOA Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
Servo VHF? Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
9 Pitot Pitot Heat, Stall Warn AOA Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
Servo VHF? Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
10 Pitot* Pitot Heat*, Stall Warn AOA* Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
VHF? Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
11 Pitot* Pitot Heat* AOA* Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
VHF? Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
12 Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
VHF? Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
13 Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
VHF? Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
14 Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
VHF? Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe

*The plans show Pitot tube installation after the 9th rib, or in the same place as the tiedown and aileron bellcrank. It’s going to be cramped in there, so I might move the installation one bay further out. Or maybe two bays further out…I have the holes for it. (Stall warning will go one bay outboard of tiedown.)

Anyway, those are my plans for now, but I’m sure things might change. For one, I need to look more at the tiedown/pitot tube geometry. I think it will be too cluttered in the bellcrank bay, but any further outboard, and the pitot tube might be in the way of the tiedowns (low wing short airplane means tiedowns will be at a small angle.) I don’t want the tiedowns getting hung up in my expensive pitot tube.

1 hour.

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Drilled Right Wing Ribs to Main and Rear Spars

September 29, 2010

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Tonight, I drilled all of the right wing main ribs to both spars. Not a lot of commentary, so I’ll just get to the pictures.

After drilling the middle two rear spar holes for each rib, I moved the clecos into those holes and matchdrilled the upper and lower holes.

Rear spar, looking forward.

Same with the front (although the clecos are in front of the main spar here).

You can just barely see the clecos in the 2nd and 3rd holes of each rib.

Also, I have a question about some of the flange-to-flange holes. Here’s what I wrote on the forums:

Hello everyone.

I was working on drilling my main ribs to the main and rear spar last night, and the instructions say “drill all of the rib to spar attach holes.”

Then, they have you take everything apart, deburr, prime, and then rivet the ribs to the spars.

What should I do for the flange to flange holes? (Circled in green below, but there is one more on the ribs for the lower rear spar flange).

If I leave them as is now, I’ll be match-drilling them with the skins later, but then I won’t be able to deburr the holes (because the ribs are now riveted to the spars).

I could run a #40 bit through all of these holes and deburr before assembly. (I could also dimple the rear spar ones, since they will eventually be dimpled to accept the skin dimples.

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

Here's the same picture, but smaller, with green circles.

We’ll see what they say.

Here's a better angle.

Then, I pulled off the rear spar.

(What a sad moment. I have had this clecoed together for a week or so, and every time I go in the garage, there’s a wing! How cool is that? Now, I’m back to rib deburring (or catching up on the left wing). Not as exciting as a wing skeleton.)

After taking the rear spar off.

Everything taken apart for the night.

I can’t believe that took me an hour.

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