Napa Valley, Halloween Weekend, Day 3

October 31, 2010

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We woke up Sunday morning (Halloween!) to a gorgeous day. The sun was shining!

After we hugged and kissed the parents goodbye after breakfast, the two of us headed off to hit the last few wineries that were on the suggested lists from some of our wine-industry contacts back in North Carolina.

Since it was so beautiful out, and all the other pictures are of the crummy overcast weather, we got a little picture-happy.

Headed down 29 toward the Carneros region.

Look at that, it's blue sky.

Definitely some pretty landscapes out here.

After a short 15 minute drive from St. Helena to the Carneros region, we pulled into the entrance of Domaine Carneros.

I think I could live here.

The grounds were very well manicured.

The girlfriend made me take a picture of this because the rams looked like something. I can't remember what.

After we got to the main level, we walked around the patio area. I can’t believe how picturesque everything is.

This is looking...sorta...northward.

I'nm loving this blue sky.

This is looking back out toward the highway.

I know people don't want to look at pictures of landscapes, but it was pretty.

We sat down and were handed this menu by one of the hostesses.

Domain Carneros is owned by the French Champange house Taittinger.

I like their logo, too.

What to drink (at 10am)? Life is so hard.

I loved these columns.

They just seemed so old-world to me.

Next, a true Frenchwoman came out and asked us about our “tasting preferences.” Her name was Nicole. She had the most beautiful French accent, which perfectly rounded out the whole sparkling wine tasting experience.

Here she is with our two tastings.

Mmm. Sparkling wine and Pinot Noir.

And now, a never-before scene posted on the build site….

A romantic moment!!!

And then, of course, I reverted back to landscapes.

Yup. I could live here.

After finishing our tasting and heading inside to the cashier (to buy a few bottles), we headed off to the industrial district of Napa (one of the actual cities in Napa Valley).

This bride is over the Napa River. Instead of taking a picture of the river, I am still focussed on the mountains.

Hey look! It’s Falcor.

This place was awesome. These guys were very generous with their pours, they had football on the big screen, and there were two dogs playing in the foyer. Way to steal our hearts, Falcor.

Here is our host. From what I can remember, he runs the show here with his girlfriend.

Private tasting room.

Here's the foyer with his girlfriend, a couple custom crushers (they bring their grapes to Falcor to make their own wine.)

They basically made us try everything they had. Here are the nine (what I’ll call “standard”) wines. After these nine, he busted out the zin port.

One of each, please!

The two dogs.

They were so cute.

Umm. I think this is the “Welcome to Napa” (the city) sign. Later on, I think I grabbed a picture of the “Welcome to Napa” (the valley) sign. That’s the famous one.

Headed back into the city from the industrial district.

Alright, Andrew. Stop taking picture of landscapes.

Seriously. Stop.

There it is! You'll have to click on the picture to read it.

The guys at Falcor highly recommended the Rutherford Grill.

Mmm.

Nice interior.

This would be an awesome casual dinner spot.

They offered us a seat outside (of course! the sun is out!).

It was still a little brisk, though, so they put us right in front of the fireplace.

Whoa. I think this was the best food of the whole trip.

This is the catch of the day with "very" wild rice.

I think this was a chicken sandwich with garlic mashed potatoes.

So all weekend we kept seeing the Napa Valley Wine Train. I guess it starts in San Francisco and stops at all of the little downs up and down the valley. I really wanted a picture of it, so I was going to get up and go frame it really well.

Then I saw this awesome chick standing on the wall doing some weird interpretive dance thing as a pose in front of the train.

Yup. I’ll take a picture of that too.

You just made the internet, honey.

Oh. I almost forgot. I wanted to take some picture of the beautiful landscape in case you hadn’t seen any yet.

[sigh]

I don't know what got into me.

Now we are on our way to Plumpjack. Cool place, but our mouths were ruined from Lunch (tasting wise…lunch was awesome, but way flavorful).

Driveway to Plumpjack.

Patio at Plumpjack.

More Plumpjack.

They had really cool grounds.

I think the girlfriend was in the bathroom, and I was bored.

Okay, now even I am getting sick of these.

We didn’t really have a good experience there. The guys were busy, and basically didn’t tell us anything about the wines.

Finally, our last winery of the trip…Silver Oak.

Nice approach.

Looks like some new vines.

Even at the last place, I had to get the view.

Their building was really cool.

I loved the stonework.

And this awesome infinity pool block.

Inside, we had a couple tastings of magnificant wine, but all the bottles for sale were upwards of $70 and $100. It was good wine, but we found bottles that knocked our socks off elsewhere for $30 and $40.

They did have a cool wine cellar area.

That's a big cork! (Said like "that's a big a meatball!")

I bet I could fit this wine cellar in my house.

I'd just have to rid of a few bedrooms.

Here’s the tasting bar.

Nice, but merh on the prices.

I just deleted a whole bunch of pictures of me in the hot tub. You guys didn’t want to see that.

That night, we did Go Fish for dinner. Great food. Crummy martini (I said "DIRTY!")

Tomorrow, we head home, but I still got some cool pictures of the drive back (not as many landscapes, I promise.)

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Tank Attach Nutplates, Left Upper Spar Flange

October 23, 2010

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After getting a ton of housework done, I managed a quick half hour in the garage to finish up the nutplates on the left spar.

I took some pictures, but they are just like the ones from the previous post, so I’ll be short with the descriptions.

 

Countersinking.

 

I found it a little quicker (and less tiring on the drilling arm) to do 4 at a time. I’d countersink four sets of holes for the nutplate attach rivets, then cleco one side of a K1100-08 nutplate in, squeeze the rivet, and then take out the cleco and rivet the other side in. Then move on to the next four.

I’m sure it didn’t actually save me any time, but for some reason it seemed quicker.

 

Just squeezed the first four rivets on this flange.

 

 

Nice looking shop heads, if I do say so myself.

 

 

Another angle, I guess?

 

 

Remove the cleco.

 

 

Put in the other rivet (man, I was really camera happy today...)

 

Everything was going great until the VERY LAST RIVET.

[sigh]

 

For some reason I lifted up the squeezer as I set the rivet.

 

 

Another angle (except it's the same angle). Sorry.

 

After successfully drilling the rivet out. I was left with a crooked nutplate. Hmm.

 

Problem solving time!

 

I didn’t have a clamp small enough to hold the nutplate in place while I reset the rivet, so I grabbed one of the #8 screws (forgot the part number, sorry), and screwed it in gently.

 

Wuhoo! I think this is going to work!

 

asdf

 

(Screwed in gently) because I hadn't countersunk yet. This worked great.

 

 

See, I told you it worked great.

 

Last, but not least, I squeezed the AN426AD3-6 rivets for the K1000-4 nutplates near the spar root.

 

Flush side...

 

 

Nutplate side.

 

64 Rivets, ONE drilled out  in 0.5 hours.

Oh, and then I went for a run with the pups. (And by run, I mean rollerblade.)

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Tank Attach Nutplates, Left Lower Spar Flange

October 21, 2010

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With the girlfriend gone for the night, I managed to clean up all of the electrical stuff I had out messing around with my wig-wag experiment, and pulled the left spar out of the box. Here it is, in all of it’s golden glory.

Golden Glory!

First step is to countersink the tank (and access plate) nutplate attach holes. First, you have to run a #40 drill through the holes or else the countersink pilot won’t even fit in the hole. Here’s one of my first countersinks on the left spar.

I went back and cleaned this one up after testing with a AN426AD3-11 rivet (-11 because it's easier to get back out while testing countersinks...it's so long you can just push it back out from the back.)

These countersinks are a little better. (The one on the right is a tad deep, but should be okay because these are just nutplate attach holes.)

I left the door to the house open so the pups could come out to visit.

Hey guys (Jack and Ginger).

Hey Andrew, how about one of those artsy shots down the spar after countersinking the nutplate attach holes?

Sure, here you go.

Then, I pulled the K1100-08 nutplates out for the tank attach holes and the K1000-06 nutplates out for the access plate holes, then clecoed one side in, and put the required rivet (AN426AD3-4) in the holes.

Where’s my squeezer?

It's right there on the table, dummy.

Then I squeezed some rivets and removed the clecos.

Squeezed (repeated 41 more times.)

Other side done. (Repeated 41 more times.)

Under the hood, things look good. I still like this new Cleveland main squeeze much better than my economy squeezer.

Pretty shop heads.

Down the row.

I then laid the spar down and saw this guy.

Yikes.

Whoa. Scary.

After a little internet research, I think I’ve figured out he (actually she due to her size) is a red-back.  I’m going to keep looking though. I don’t want it to be a red-back.

1.0 hour. 84 rivets.

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FINISHED DEVINYLING WING SKINS!

October 18, 2010


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WUHUOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

(Not that I don’t like devinyling…)

No really, it’s kind of mindless, easy time-passing.

The real reason this is a win is that it is really the last thing (except for all of the leading edge, aileron, and flap skins) I can devinyl in the airplane room before needing to buckle down, finish up the floors, and really get started on the wings.

 

I think this is the right upper outboard skin, skeleton side.

 

 

And the other side.

 

Once I really get going on the other side, I need to catch the left main spar up to where the right is, build the left rear spar, and then do the rib prep trick. Then, I’ll build a wing stand and start the fun parts (Ha! They’re all fun parts!)

0.5 hours.


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Wig Wag FAIL

October 17, 2010


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Okay, so maybe FAIL is a little strong.

Let me back up a few days and explain how I got to FAIL.

Last week sometime (can’t remember when, it was a rough week at work), I ordered some things from B&C to make the wig-wag circuit I’ve been dreaming up.

Anyway, a small box with all my goodies appeared on Thursday, so of course I stayed up late trying to put my circuit together.

All I have as far as electrical tools is one of those $5 combination crimper/stripper tools that really sucks. After an hour of wiring, my hands were killing me, frustration levels were really high, and I made the decision that I needed both an automatic stripper (I hope that doesn’t set off the google search alarms) and a professional crimper. More on those later.

Anyway, that night, I ended up with this:

 

Look ma! I'm wiring!

 

+14V will come in to the left, and the lights will be connected to the center terminals of the 2-3 switch in the picture. the fast-on connector at the top of the picture will eventually be connected to a timer circuit that will close the relay (top left) after 30 seconds.

It was too late to start hooking stuff up. Now. Back to the tools. I ran off to Lowe’s (after considering buying these things on eBay…no, they need to be sharp, and Lowe’s has the name brand one I want), and bought the STRIPMASTER.

 

Seriously. That's the name you come up with?

 

 

A closeup of the important bits.

 

And since I had never seen one work before, I grabbed this short video.

Pretty slick, huh? This is instead of about 60 seconds worth of stupid tool-knife-stupid tool-hurt hand-knife again-stupid tool just to strip one end of one wire.

Okay, let’s find some lights and start pushing electrons around!

 

These will do. 12V, 50W. (Enough for a spare for this little experiment.)

 

 

I fabricated 4 little tube crimps to connect 16AWG tefzel wire to the lights.

 

Oh, and the wood is so you don’t start melting the nice carpet you’ve purchased for the workbench top. Ask me how I knew to do this.

 

Wuhoo! It's alive!

 

Okay, let’s hook up my circuit.

This is LDG ON and WIGWAG OFF.

 

Sweet. Electrons are still flowing.

 

But. This is where bad stuff starting happening.

I threw the WIGWAG switch to ON and then used the simulated timer circuit to close the relay. Nothing happened (lights stayed on).

After a little more investigation, I figured out that both the normally open (NO) and normally closed (NC) contacts were getting +14V all the time. Tha’ts not good. (I knew I needed some diodes or something. I’ll investigate further seperately.)

During the investigation, I wanted to make sure that everything works as advertised.

I wired up the flasher from B&C. I don’t think it’s working correctly. What do you think?

It’s making a weird buzzing noise, and the first light comes on, then the second one starts to come on, but it doesn’t really finish a singe cycle. I’ll have to email the aeroelectric list about it and see what they say.

Since I didn’t get that huge satisfaction of a completely working circuit, I grabbed an automotive flasher I had on the shelf.

It’s the wrong flash pattern, and it won’t work with alternating lights, but it’s still cool.

Finally, I bypassed the B&C flasher and checked the relay operation.

First, I turn on the lights. Then, I turn on the wigwag, and the lights stay constant. Third, I’ll close the relay so current flows through the flasher (although since it’s not hooked up, the lights should turn on.) Let’s see what happens.

Wuhoo, my one electrical engineering class in college has paid off!

This was about an hour’s worth of work, and since it’s ultimately for the build, I’m going to count it as R&D time.

1.0 hours.

Oh, and the next day, I hooked just the wig wag portion up to my car battery, and it worked (I wonder what’s going on with my power supply…).

It’s a little fast for me. I wonder if there is a way to slow it down.


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Rolling My Own Wig-Wag Circuit

October 11, 2010


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Over the last couple months, I’ve been eyeing various landing and taxi light setups, trying to figure out what I want to do for my airplane.

I’m not super keen on the leading edge landing/taxi light setup right now, so I want to focus on putting all the lights in the wingtips.

There is a Van’s wingtip landing light kit that puts two MR16 sized bulbs in each wingtip. Supposedly, you can aim one set forward for landing (also recognition) lights, and aim the other set down for taxi.

I’ve read on the forums that people haven’t been too thrilled with this setup using the standard 35W and 50W halogens that van’s provides. Something about not getting enough light on the centerline of the aircraft, where you need it for landing.

I have also read, however, that with the MR16 HID upgrades from somewhere like www.planelights.com or duckworksav.com, there is plenty of light to go around.

Sweet. I’ll go with those. (This is the same as Mike Bullock’s setup, except instead of both sets being 50W, I’ll probably use one set of 50W HIDs for landing, and use a 35W (pronounced “less expensive”) for taxi lights.

But then we come to wig-wag. I think wig-wag (pulsing lights) for the landing lights is a requirement safety wise, so I am planning on incorporating a wig-wag circuit into my landing lights.

I could just wire them in parallel, so you turn the landing lights on, and either wig-wag them or not depending on wig-wag switch position, but because these are going to be HID bulbs, one needs to warm the bulbs up before pulsing. (I’ve read that 25 seconds was used previously on HID flashing circuits, so I’m going to use 30 seconds for now, but I may bump that up based on a crude bulb temperature test I may set up in the future.)

Procedurally, I could just wait 30 seconds after turning the landing lights on before turning on the other switch, pulsing them, but who can remember that 100% of the time? 30 seconds is just about the time it takes between turning the lights on for takeoff and liftoff. This is not the right time to be reaching down for another switch.

I’d rather flip both switches ON, and have them automatically warm up before starting to pulse.

Enter xevision. They have a multiple-hundred-dollar HID flasher box that will work great for this application.

Except I’m an engineer, and I love a good problem to solve, and I don’t have hundreds of dollars laying around.

Enter Microsoft Visio and B&C. Using Bob N’s Low Cost Wing Wag Alternative document (page 2.0) as a starting point, I drew up a concept for a  landing and wig-wag circuit with a delay timer (haven’t figured out the timer circuit yet, but it’s a relay trigger, so I’m going to simulate it with a switch for now).

Keep in mind, I could combine the functions into a 2-10 switch (similar to page 3.0 of the wig-wag document), but then I couldn’t use the switch-breaker I’m planning to use in place of the regular switch I have depicted. Maybe this circuit is a good candidate for an inline fuse…I’ll sort that out later.

Anyway, here’s the circuit for now (since I am a wiring novice, I’ll have to figure out how to connect 5 wires to one switch terminal later…I know you can’t just bolt them all on there.)

SEPARATE SWITCHES (see below for single switch diagrams)

Oh, and I’ve shown the HID lights here as just normal lights. You get the idea, though.

UPDATE: After testing, I realized I need diodes in here on the flasher side of the 2-3 switch near the NC part of the relay to isolate the two lights. I’ll try to draw them in.

 

Both switches OFF.

 

Okay, for the first iteration (see next picture), I’ve turned on the LDG LT switch. +12VDC is now available through the switch, and is going to the following places: 1) to the timer circuit, starting the 30s timer (mechanism TBD), 2) The COM terminal on the SPDT Relay (and therefore through the NC terminal to both of the WIGWIG ON terminals of that switch), and 3) to both of the WIGWIG OFF terminals of that switch.

Summary, the 30s timer as started, and both landing lights are on steady.

 

LDG ON for less than 30 secs, WW OFF.

 

At this point, if we turn the WIGWAG switch ON (see next picture), the landing lights are still getting power, but through the NC terminals of the relay, so they are both still on steady. This is good, because we don’t want them to pulse before the 30s of warm up time as elapsed.

 

LDG ON>30s, WW ON.

 

Okay, let’s turn the WIGWAG switch back off, and let the 30 seconds elapse. Now. +12VDC is now available through the switch, and is going to the following places: 1) to the timer circuit, which has now closed the relay, 2) The COM terminal on the SPDT Relay (and therefore through the NO terminal to the SSF flasher, and then to both of the WIGWIG ON terminals of that switch), and 3) to both of the WIGWIG OFF terminals of that switch.

Summary, the 30s timer has elapsed, but since the WIGWAG switch is off, we are still getting steady lights.

 

LDG ON for greater than 30 seconds, WW OFF.

 

Finally, we move the WIGWAG switch to ON, and the lights are being powered through the LDG LT switch, the trigger relay, which closes the SPDT relay, the SSF flasher, and the WIGWAG switches ON terminals.

Summary. Pulsing lights.

 

LDG ON>30s, WW ON.

 

Basically, the timer won’t let power go through the flasher until 30s after the landing lights are turned on.

The trick now will be to figure out whether I want them on one ON-ON-ON switch. (Switch positions would be OFF-LDG ONLY-WIG WAG.)

Here’s the logic table.

LDG/WINGWAG Logic Table
Time LDG LT Switch WIG WAG Switch Result
Any OFF OFF OFF
Any OFF ON OFF
<30s after
LDG->ON
ON OFF STEADY
<30s after
LDG->ON
ON ON STEADY
>30s after
LDG->ON
ON OFF STEADY
>30s after
LDG->ON
ON ON PULSE



SINGLE SWITCH

Of course, I was motivated enough to figure it out.

I think this will work.

 

OFF

 

 

LDG Only (Before 30s...if this was after 30 seconds, the timer would close the relay, but since it is unpowered, it wouldn't matter.)

 

 

Wig Wag on, but before the 30 seconds had elapsed. Still steady lights.

 

 

Then, after the 30 seconds, we have flashing.

 

Now, I figure I’m missing some diodes or something somewhere. Anyone have any suggestions?


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10 Rivets on the Left Elevator

October 10, 2010

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Well, I was outside working on the floors, trim, and shoe molding for the house today, and I had the urge to set some rivets. I got out the left elevator, and located a few candidates.

I had left a few of the trailing edge area rivets unsqueezed on the left elevator, because I didn’t have any way to reach them. now that I have my no-hole yoke, I could squeeze them.

No pictures, but they went in okay.

I moved on to the trim tab, where I squeezed two more on the inboard side, and then decided to try the last 4 rivets of the empennage…the trim tab outboard riblet I made.

3 of them went in no problem. The 4th? Nope. Drilled out twice, screwed up the hole, drilled to #30, used an oops rivet, still messed it up, drilled again, finally set, but it’s pretty ugly. I know it’s not structural, but that in combination with a couple other things means I’m probably going to join the “multiple trim tab” club.

[sigh].

But, the good news? Napa is having a sale on their MS7220 Self-Etching Primer.

[after walking into local Napa store]

Me: Good morning. I am looking for a can of 7220 Self-etching Primer. I usually use about a can per month, but I’ll buy a case if you can give me a volume discount.

Napa lady: No.

[awkward pause]

Lady: But I’ll sell you however many you want at the super sale price of $5 a can.

Me: Whoa! sweet! What’s the deal? Is Napa discontinuing this stuff?

Lady: Nope, they just choose to discount stuff every once in awhile.

[bought two cases]

Anyway. 10 rivets set, 3 drilled out. (This is not helping my average.) Half hour.

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Devinyled Two More Wing Skins

October 6, 2010

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Well, I manage to put in another “inside” night tonight on the airplane.

I’m not sure why I took this picture. I think I was waiting for the soldering iron to heat up.

Some of the airplane parts in the corner. I need to get back to drilling out the rudder skins one of these days.

Anyway, I finished up the right lower outboard wing skin, and then moved on to one of the upper outboard wing skins (they are identical, so it isn’t a left or right).

Here's the right lower outboard wing skin before devinyling.

And after.

I totally forgot to take any pictures of the upper outboard wing skin I got done.

One hour tonight (30 minutes per skin). One more short session, and all my skins should be devinlyed.

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Devinyled Left Lower Outboard Wing Skin

October 4, 2010

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Not much work tonight, but I did manage to escape to the workout room (after a workout!) and devinyl the left lower outboard wing skin. I can’t think of anything funny or insightful to say about it.

Sorry.

 

Upper (towards the wing skeleton) side.

 

 

Lower (towards the bottom of the wing) side.

 

Half an hour of vinyl-removing fun.

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Drilled Wiring and Conduit Holes in Ribs

October 3, 2010

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Alright, a little off-topic, but I have to talk about food for a minute. Friday night, I got home from a very hard day at the office, and my wonderful girlfriend announced we are having steak (see? I told you she was wonderful). I also nailed the cooking times on the grill.

Also, that is stuffed squash and zucchini. Amazing.

Then on Saturday, she announced we were having “the best chili you will ever have” for our football date (see! amazing!).

Vandy lost, UNC won, but more importantly, the chili was amazing. Let me know if you want the recipe, but beware, it calls for a cup of strong coffee and a bottle of dark beer. Crazy good recipe, though.

Mmm. Chili.

Okay, back to the airplane.

After a big day on the house, I decided that tonight was all about the ribs.

I scoured a few build sites for ideas, but I basically need to come up with wire routing for the wings. I’m going to use tables to stay organized.

Wiring Requirements
Left Wing Pitot Total Pressure (the “pitot” part of the pitot tube)

AOA Total Pressure (…angled down)

Heated pitot leads

Landing Light (wingtip)

Taxi Light (wingtip)

Nav/strobe lights (probably AeroLeds)

Van’s Stall Warning (can’t decided between this and AOA for stall protection…also, is this left or right wing? Can’t remember)

Right Wing Landing Light (wingtip)

Taxi Light (wingtip)

Nav/strobe (probably AeroLeds)

Autopilot servo

Wingtip NAV antenna? (maybe)

So I clearly need more stuff in the left wing than the right wing, but I decided to drill everything the same way.

As far as the ribs are concerned, there are two flavors of ribs with respect to the tooling holes as provided in the ribs from the factory. (They talk about flavor of ribs in the manual, too, but they are talking about part numbers and flange orientations, I am talking just about the tooling hole arrangements.)

There are 14 total ribs.

The first 11 ribs (counting from inboard to outboard) have three tooling holes in the front part of the web (just behind the main spar). The top and bottom holes are small, and the middle one is 7/16″. I decided (based on a lot of other builder’s sites, and the guidance from the Construction FAQs from Van’s that I’ll enlarge the top and bottom holes to 3/8″. (I’ll get to the other flavor of ribs in a little.)

Here's a before (front) and after (aft).

By the way, I used my brand new #4 Unibit to drill these. I stared at the Unibit from harbor freight (~$15) for awhile, and then decided this is probably something I am going to use a lot and appreciate if it is higher quality. I sprung for the $42 one from Lowes-Aviation.

I think it goes from 3/16" to 7/8" in 1/16" increments.

So, after knocking all of the right wing ribs out, I gathered up the left wing ribs, labelled their positions and orientations, and did those 3/8″ holes, too.

Looking good so far.

The next flavor of ribs are the three outboard ribs (I’m missing one from the picture, look further down.)

They come with one hole in the forward part of the rib. I decided that I would just enlarge that hole to 3/8″ and not try to duplicate all three holes. (The construction FAQ sheet referenced earlier only talks about enlarging tooling holes in this location, not creating new holes.)

2 of the 3 outboard ribs done.

Here's the outboard most rib (upside down from the rest). Van's wants you to leave this one now for help in aileron alignment. I can deal with that.

Now, back to the construction FAQ. Van’s does let you drill a brand-spanking-new 3/4″ hole.

An additional hole may be drilled in the lower 1/3 of the rib between the large lightening hole and the next one aft. This hole may be up to 3/4” diameter to accommodate our wiring conduit (DUCT NT 5/8-50) or Bushing SB750-10 (5/8” I.D.). The conduit is light and flexible. It’s .810 “ outside diameter means that when snapped into place, the corrugations hold it from slipping out. If using the conduit, a dab of fuel tank sealant or RTV should be put on the conduit at each rib to prevent the conduit from being cut through over time from vibrations.

Sweet. I created a makeshift template. and started marking the center of the hole.

(Some people go crazy with this alignment. After reading a lot of other experiences, I reminded myself that this is a flexible conduit hole. They don’t have to be perfectly aligned. Although, after everything was all said and done, they were pretty darn aligned.) Don’t waste a lot of time here on a special tool. Cardboard worked great.

Fancy-schmancy hole alignment tool.

So, after punching 28 3/4″ size holes in both the left and right wing ribs, this is what I ended up with. (Really 3 flavors.)

11 inboard ribs each side with 3 holes and a conduit hole, 2 outboard-ish ribs each side with 1 hole and a conduit hole, and 1 outboard rib with 1 hole (that needs to be enlarged) and a conduit hole.

Of course, I had to lay out all the right wing ribs for this completely unnecessary picture.

Tada! (The left ribs are done, too, but they are stored back on the shelf.)

Okay, now that I’ve drilled the maximum amount of approved holes in each of the ribs, let’s figure out where this stuff should go.

Wiring/Conduit Plans in Ribs
Left Right
Rib # 3/8″ 7/16″ 3/8″ 3/4″ Conduit 3/8″ 7/16″ 3/8″ 3/4″ Conduit
1 Pitot Pitot Heat, Stall Warn AOA Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
Servo VHF? Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
2 Pitot Pitot Heat, Stall Warn AOA Taxi
Landing
Nav
Strobe
Servo VHF? Taxi
Landing
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3 Pitot Pitot Heat, Stall Warn AOA Taxi
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4 Pitot Pitot Heat, Stall Warn AOA Taxi
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5 Pitot Pitot Heat, Stall Warn AOA Taxi
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6 Pitot Pitot Heat, Stall Warn AOA Taxi
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7 Pitot Pitot Heat, Stall Warn AOA Taxi
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8 Pitot Pitot Heat, Stall Warn AOA Taxi
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9 Pitot Pitot Heat, Stall Warn AOA Taxi
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10 Pitot* Pitot Heat*, Stall Warn AOA* Taxi
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11 Pitot* Pitot Heat* AOA* Taxi
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12 Taxi
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13 Taxi
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14 Taxi
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*The plans show Pitot tube installation after the 9th rib, or in the same place as the tiedown and aileron bellcrank. It’s going to be cramped in there, so I might move the installation one bay further out. Or maybe two bays further out…I have the holes for it. (Stall warning will go one bay outboard of tiedown.)

Anyway, those are my plans for now, but I’m sure things might change. For one, I need to look more at the tiedown/pitot tube geometry. I think it will be too cluttered in the bellcrank bay, but any further outboard, and the pitot tube might be in the way of the tiedowns (low wing short airplane means tiedowns will be at a small angle.) I don’t want the tiedowns getting hung up in my expensive pitot tube.

1 hour.

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