Deburr and Dimple HS skeleton

January 3, 2010

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Today was another short day.
I spent about 3.5 hours (here and there) deburring all of the holes in the HS skeleton and then dimpling any holes that needed it (skin to rib holes). I’m using Avery’s tank dimple dies for any dimples recieving other dimples (ribs only, which recieve the skin dimples) at the reccommendation of some other builders (namely Brad Oliver’s post). The resulting dimples look great so far. Sorry about the lack of pictures; edge finishing is not exciting.

These are just the right side HS ribs, but I did the left side, too. And all of the spars.

I also managed to edge and surface prep the left hand skeleton and one of the HS-609PPs.

Coming up next: more edge finishing and prep for priming, plus skin deburring and dimpling. I might finish up the left side stuff (since I can prime pretty quickly) and do a little riveting tonight. Or, wait and do the whole HS together. I haven’t decided yet. In the least, I need to clean up a little. There is aluminum everywhere.

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Inboard ribs, devinyled left HS skin

January 2, 2010

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Busy day today, but I did get some work in. I managed to get the left and right HS-404s and HS-405s reclecoed onto their respective skins to make sure the inboard edges were flush with eachother.  This isn’t called out in the instructions or anything, just one of those small details that would bug me if I didn’t make the rib to skin edges flush. I should have done this prior to disassembly, but I didn’t really think about this until later. By the way, the only time this will even matter is when someone has the fuse-emp fairing off and can see the inboard skin/rib edges.

Also, I brought the left HS skin into the kitchen and fired up the now dull (file and scotchbrite pad) soldering iron to devinyl the left HS skin. I decided I am only going to prime the mating surfaces of the skins (but all of the skeleton), so I did the rivet lines on the interior, too. It took forever.

Left skin devinyled. Looks nice.

2.0 hours today total. 30 minutes for the inboard ribs and an hour and a half for the devinyling. Luckily, I perfected (at least improved) my devinyling technique; the right skin should go a little faster.

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More HS work

December 31, 2009

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First thing in the morning, I had to run some errands, one of which included a stop by Harbor Freight to exchange my Automatic Compressor Drain Kit that had a crack in it. While I was there, I used two coupons. One, for a free tape measure, the other for almost half off a 6″ digital caliper. Walked out the door with a new caliper, tape measure, and an exchanged drain kit for $10. Can’t beat that.

Free tape measure at Harbor Freight. Also a coupon for 1/2 off a $20 digital caliper.

I went ahead and scotchbrited all the HS ribs. I was sick of the aluminum dust on my hands during scotchbriting, so I took these inside and did them with warm water (only reason for warm was so my hands didn’t get cold) in the kitchen sink. Worked well with a lot less dust. (Also, I think showing pictures of my work with finished pieces looks a lot better than the original parts, which are all shiny and finger-printy after my grubby hands work with them.)

Surface prepped HS ribs.

Then, the directions have you cleco the left skeleton together.

It looks like an airplane! Kind of.

I did the right side too (mostly so I could take the next picture), then match-drilled all of the rib/spar attach points to #30, (except for 708/603), which they have you do later to a #21.

Both skeletons after match-drilling all of the rib to spar attach points.

Then you get to cleco on the skin (wuhoo!). I had trouble with HS-707 here. the very tip of the rib kind of caught on the  skin (vinyl); I had to really work to get it back into position and clecoed. you can see here I clecoed every hole on the HS-707.

Clecoed on the left HS-601 skin.

Then I inserted the HS-404 (front inboard) and HS-405 (rear inboard) ribs and clamp. Here, you can see the HS-405 clamped.

Inserted HS-404 and HS-405 for match drilling.

Then I match-drilled the HS-405 to the HS-601PP (skin). I didn’t do the top or bottom forward most hole, because I seem to be having edge distance troubles on the HS-405 and HS-702 spar. I checked everything and it seems to be right. I checked some other build sites to see if other people have run into this, no one mentioned it. Right as I was going to post a question on the VAF forums about this, a new thread popped up. Apparently this is a common problem, and the edge distance on HS-405 is not to be worried about. It’s a little confusing, though, given the prepunched nature of the parts.

I went ahead and match-drilled it. I’ll examine the edge distance a little more closely when I take apart the HS for prep. I repeated all the steps for the right side, then started in on match-drilling the skin to forward spar holes inboard of the 707. (Below, you are looking at the bottom of the stab, so the right HS is on the left in the picture. you can see the extra clecos from what I will call the “middle ribs” (708 and 707) inboard along the front spar. Those are not pre-punched on the spar, so you have to use the holes in the skin to match-drill.)

Then repeated for the right HS. Looks like an airplane!

11am to 6pm, with an hour for lunch. 6 hours today.

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