Alright, I was having a bad day with the rear spar, so after I got most of it riveted on, I moved on to the skins.
I jumped the gun a little and clecoed on the top outboard skin (jumped the gun because the spar wasn’t re-leveled and the inboard skin outboard edge actually underlaps the outboard top skin.
Anyway, with just two clecos in the skin, I was able to thread some string around a cleco on either end of the spar to jack up the center of the rear spar.
After some jacking, the spar is now perfectly straight.
Next, I pulled out the top outboard skin. This is the right version (they are actually the same from Van’s, but I had pulled off the vinyl on the side I intended to be the interior side for the wing walk doubler.
Many builders before me have complained that Van’s wants you to trim the provided doubler from 10″ to 9 3/8″.
Many builders have left it at 10″, then matchdrilled to the skin, then found out there is a matchdrilled hole that violates edge distance.
It would probably be okay, but why include that extra 5/8″ strip of 26″ long aluminum if you don’t have to?
IT’S WEIGHT SAVINGS!!!
Anyway, my snips do a great job with this aluminum, so I got to it and started edge finishing.
Then, tape that bad boy up, assuring that the inboard edges are flush.
Then, you flip the skin over and start matchdrilling. I used clecos every so often to hold everything together nicely.
About halfway through, I lifted up the assembly to check on progress.
After more drilling…
I pulled apart the skins to clean everything up. Lot’s of aluminum shavings everywhere.
Then, I spent a few minutes getting the top skins clecoed on.
This was a nice positive finish to counteract my riveting blunders earlier. I’ll talk to Van’s about the rear spar.
I hope I don’t have to replace it.
0.5 hours of clecoing fun.